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Le manteau de l'Eveque

First ascent: Elio Bonfanti, Rinaldo Roetti 18/07/2011
By: Elio Bonfanti
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Aiguille de l'Eveque, Height: 3716m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Nice route in a mountain environment, up granite marked by plenty of knobs. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.

GETTING THERE

From Courmayeur drive into Val Ferret and park the car after the houses at Tronchey, directly beneath the Pra Sec glacier.

ACCESS

Walk up the detritus gully to the first rocks on the right, towards the Jacchia bivouac, then follow a vague track and some yellow markers to reach a short in-situ rope. Ascend this to reach the wide cleft at the base of the obvious rock face (1:40 hours).

ROUTE

P1: 6a
P2: 5a
P3: 6c / 7a A0
P4: 6a+
P5: 6b
P6: 4b

DESCENT

Abseil down the route. 50m ropes.

GEAR

10 mm bolts. Take a set of camming devices up to Camalot #3 for additional pro.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Summer

DIFFICULTY

7a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b+

FACE

Southwest

LENGTH

240m

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