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Climbing in Sardinia, trad and new multi-pitches
21/01/2014 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, trad and new multi-pitches
A January update by Maurizio Oviglia about the latest climbing news from Sardinia. This month: trad climbing at Regno di Onan, Capo Pecora, the Supramonte di Urzulei with the new route Sos de Urthullè and Villacidro with the new climb...
Hydra at Capo Pecora in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
15/01/2014 - Climbing
Hydra at Capo Pecora in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Hydra, the latest route to be added to the trad climbing area Capo Pecora in Sardinia.
Follow the Gully, new couloir on Barre des Ecrins
21/01/2013 - Alpinism
Follow the Gully, new couloir on Barre des Ecrins
On 23/11/2012 Marcello Sanguineti, Sergio De Leo, Christian Türk made the first ascent of "Follow the Gully" (300m, M6) a new gully up the South Face of Barre des Ecrins (Dauphiné Alps, France).
A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari
08/10/2012 - Alpinism
A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari
On 16 September Giangi Angeloni and Daniele Calegari made the first free ascent of A piede libero (7c+, 7a obl., 280m), the new route they established between 2009 and 2012 up Corna delle Quattro Matte (Presolana massif), Italy.
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
13/03/2012 - Alpinism
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
The thoughts of American alpinist Jim Bridwell about the bolt chopping on the Compressor Route, Cerro Torre, Patagonia
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
20/07/2010 - Alpinism
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia
Illuminati repeated by Svab e Premrl
22/02/2008 - Alpinism
Illuminati repeated by Svab e Premrl
Second repeat of “Illuminati” M11 WI6+ of the super multi-pitch mixed route in Vallunga (Val Gardena, Dolomites) at the hands of Erik Svab from Italy and Klemen Premrl from Slovenia.
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
04/08/2005 - Climbing
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m);...
Pamir Alay, a granite climbing paradise
27/01/2001 - Alpinism
Pamir Alay, a granite climbing paradise
The Pamir Alay is an immense region wedged between the republics of Kirghistan and Tajikistan , dominated by the giant Pic Communism (7495m) and Pic Lenin (7134m), once the highest mountains in the now defunct Soviet Union. By Marco Borghetti,...