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Schutzengelweg first winter ascent on Sagwandspitze in Valsertal by Martin Sieberer, Lukas Waldner
23/01/2026 - Alpinism
Schutzengelweg first winter ascent on Sagwandspitze in Valsertal by Martin Sieberer, Lukas Waldner
On 20/01/2026 Austrian alpinists Martin Sieberer and Lukas Waldner completed the first winter ascent of 'Schutzengelweg' on the North Face of Sagwandspitze in the Valsertal valley in Tyrol, Austria. First ascended in summer 1982 by Andreas Orgler and Reinhard Schiestl, this is the first known repeat in 34 years.
Une histoire d'amitié added to Roc de Garnesier at Dévoluy in France by Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni
22/01/2026 - Alpinism
Une histoire d'amitié added to Roc de Garnesier at Dévoluy in France by Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni
On 20/01/2026 French alpinists Melvin Bou and Kilian Moni made the first ascent of 'Une histoire d'amitié' on the huge, untouched west face of Roc de Garnesier close to Lus-la- Jarjatte in France. This is their second new climb in the Dévoluy massif this season after 'Saute Aure et God...
Alpine Trilogy video #3: Benjamin Védrines & Léo Billon climb the Grandes Jorasses
20/01/2026 - Alpinism
Alpine Trilogy video #3: Benjamin Védrines & Léo Billon climb the Grandes Jorasses
Watch Benjamin Védrines and Léo Billon climb the Grandes Jorasses via the Colton-McIntyre route, as part of their April 2025 Alpine Trilogy which resulted in them enchaining in 6 days and without motorised transport the Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses.
First Fitz Roy BASE jump by Boris Egorov, Konstantin Jäämurd, Vladimir Murzaev
19/01/2026 - Alpinism
First Fitz Roy BASE jump by Boris Egorov, Konstantin Jäämurd, Vladimir Murzaev
On 7 January 2026 Russian alpinists Boris Egorov, Vladimir Murzaev, Konstantin Yaemurd made the first BASE jump off Fitz Roy (Cerro Chaltén) in Patagonia. Egorov reports.
Video: Yashkuk Sar first ascent in Pakistan by August Franzen, Dane Steadman, Cody Winckler
14/01/2026 - Alpinism
Video: Yashkuk Sar first ascent in Pakistan by August Franzen, Dane Steadman, Cody Winckler
The documentary of the award-winning first ascent of Yashkuk Sar in Pakistan, carried out by the American alpinists August Franzen, Dane Steadman and Cody Winckler from 19 - 23 September 2024.
Saute Aure et God Homme, new mixed climb on Cascade de Saute Aure in France's Hautes-Alpes
14/01/2026 - Alpinism
Saute Aure et God Homme, new mixed climb on Cascade de Saute Aure in France's Hautes-Alpes
On 6 and 7 January 2026 French alpinists Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni and Raphael Olbrecht made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Saute Aure et God Homme' (AI 5, M11 135m) on the rarely-formed classic Cascade de Saute Aure icefall in the Dévoluy massif of the Hautes-Alpes in France....
New Year's Eve on the Dru: Filip Babicz, Olivier Gajewski climb the Allain - Leininger route free in a day in winter
07/01/2026 - Alpinism
New Year's Eve on the Dru: Filip Babicz, Olivier Gajewski climb the Allain - Leininger route free in a day in winter
On 31/12/2025 Filip Babicz and Olivier Gajewski climbed the historic 'Allain-Leininger' route (TD+, M7, 900m) on the north face of the Petit Dru (3,733m) in the Mont Blanc massif. This is a rare single-day free ascent in winter of this classic, established in 1935 by Pierre Allain and Raymond Leininger.
Alpine Trilogy video #2: Benjamin Védrines & Léo Billon climb the Matterhorn
06/01/2026 - Alpinism
Alpine Trilogy video #2: Benjamin Védrines & Léo Billon climb the Matterhorn
Watch Benjamin Védrines and Léo Billon climb the Matterhorn via the classic Schmid route, as part of their April 2025 Alpine Trilogy which resulted in them enchaining in 6 days and without motorised transport the Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses.
Renato Casarotto's historic first winter ascent of Diedro Cozzolino on Piccolo Mangart in the Julian Alps
06/01/2026 - Alpinism
Renato Casarotto's historic first winter ascent of Diedro Cozzolino on Piccolo Mangart in the Julian Alps
We are reproducing, courtesy of the Gorizia section of the Italian Mountaineering Club, the account of the historic first winter ascent of 'Diedro Nord' of Piccolo Mangart di Coritenza in the Julian Alps. Also referred to as 'Diedro Cozzolino', this dihedral was climbed solo by the Italian alpinist Renato Casarotto...
Winter ascent of Directe Gamma on Barre des Écrins by Antoine Bouqueret, Charles Dubouloz
05/01/2026 - Alpinism
Winter ascent of Directe Gamma on Barre des Écrins by Antoine Bouqueret, Charles Dubouloz
From 28 to 31 December 2025, French alpinists Antoine Bouqueret and Charles Dubouloz repeated the 'Directe Gamma' route on the southeast face of the Barre des Écrins (4,102m). This might well be the first winter ascent of this legendary route, first climbed in 1992 by the Italians Michele Frigerio, Eugenio...
Natural Logic established on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
27/12/2025 - Alpinism
Natural Logic established on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 14/12/2025 Emanuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Natural Logic' on the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella group of the Italian Alps. Andreozzi provides the details.
Alpine Trilogy video #1: Benjamin Védrines & Léo Billon on Eiger North Face
26/12/2025 - Alpinism
Alpine Trilogy video #1: Benjamin Védrines & Léo Billon on Eiger North Face
Watch Benjamin Védrines and Léo Billon climb the north face of the Eiger, as part of their April 2025 Alpine Trilogy which resulted in them enchaining in 6 days and without motorised transport the Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses.
Iker Pou celebrates 25 years of climbing 9a
18/12/2025 - Climbing
Iker Pou celebrates 25 years of climbing 9a
Basque climber Iker Pou has repeated 'Witch Hunter' (9a) at Margalef. With his most recent ascent the 48-year-old celebrates a quarter of a century of 9a climbing, beginning with his repeat of 'Action Directe' in the Frankenjura in autumn 2000.
Charles Dubouloz makes winter solo ascent of Divine Providence
16/12/2025 - Alpinism
Charles Dubouloz makes winter solo ascent of Divine Providence
From 9 - 14 December 2025 French alpinist Charles Dubouloz completed a rare solo ascent of Divine Providence on Grand Pilier d'Angle. First ascended by Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny in 1984, the route is one of the most legendary climbs in the entire Mont Blanc massif
Alex Hansen & Benjamin Lieber make first ascent of Changla Khang West in Nepal
05/12/2025 - Alpinism
Alex Hansen & Benjamin Lieber make first ascent of Changla Khang West in Nepal
American alpinists Alex Hansen and Benjamin Lieber have made the first ascent of Changla Khang West (6233m) in Nepal. The pair climbed the mountain alpine style over a period of five days via the Southwest Ridge (1200m, WI4 M4). Lieber provides details.
Successful women's SAC Expedition establishes new climbs in Greenland
03/12/2025 - Alpinism
Successful women's SAC Expedition establishes new climbs in Greenland
In August 2025 a women's expedition comprised of Naomie Bürki, Pauline Laubscher, Gianna Müller, Caro North, Lea Schneider, Melanie Tenorio, Ramona Volken, and Ramona Waldner established a host of new climbs in the Graah Fjord and the Skjoldungen Fjord areas of Greenland. The alpinists travelled by fair means, ie public...

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