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Climbing in Sardinia news: Supramonte
20/05/2014 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia news: Supramonte
May update by Maurizio Oviglia about the latest climbing news from Sardinia: three big new routes in the Supramonte massif.
David Lama, Cerro Torre and the Compressor route
19/05/2014 - Interviews
David Lama, Cerro Torre and the Compressor route
Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama two years after the first free ascent of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia, carried out with Peter Ortner in January 2012.
Twll Mawr and the longest sport climb in the UK
12/05/2014 - Climbing
Twll Mawr and the longest sport climb in the UK
Ian Lloyd-Jones and his son Celt Lloyd-Jones have established The Desolation of Smaug, the longest sport climb in the United Kingdom.
Senja Island new ice climbs in Norway by Papert, Hauser and Senf
21/04/2014 - Alpinism
Senja Island new ice climbs in Norway by Papert, Hauser and Senf
In February 2014 Ines Papert, Rudi Hauser Thomas Senf made three first ascents in Norway: Finnmonster (A2+, WI6 400m) on Senja Island, Eagles Paradise (8/IIIV WI5 500m) up Roalden and Crazy Maze (8+/IX WI4+ 600m) up Breitinden.
Alex Luger climbs Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand, Austria
03/04/2014 - Climbing
Alex Luger climbs Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand, Austria
Austrian rock climber Alex Luger has added Sangre de Toro (8b+, 230m) to Rote Wand, Lechquellengebirge, Austria
Corsica new climb by Arnaud Petit and Jeff Arnoldi
27/03/2014 - Climbing
Corsica new climb by Arnaud Petit and Jeff Arnoldi
French climbers Arnaud Petit and Jeff Arnoldi have completed Le non-sens et la joie (8a, 250m), a new route up the West face of Capu Cascioni, close to Porto on the western side of Corsica
Norway new ice climbs for Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner
26/03/2014 - Alpinism
Norway new ice climbs for Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner
In February 2014 the Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner travelled to northern Norway and established a host of new ice climbs, including Tiroler tris (550m, WI 6), Enter sandman (750m, WI7-) and Happy end (600m, M5 WI5).
Bavella climbing in Corsica: Punta A Biciartula
24/03/2014 - Climbing
Bavella climbing in Corsica: Punta A Biciartula
Maurizio Oviglia reveals Punta A Biciartula at Bavella, Corsica; pure pleasure climbing up some of the most beautiful and unique granite in the world.
Follie Belliche on Cima Ceremana, a first redpoint in winter, sort of...
15/03/2014 - Alpinism
Follie Belliche on Cima Ceremana, a first redpoint in winter, sort of...
On 13 March Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi made the first free ascent and first winter ascent of Follie Belliche (330m, 7b+ max, 6c+ obl.), the route they established on 30/08 and 21/09/2013 up Cima Ceremana (Lagorai, Dolomites). The report...
Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi
20/02/2014 - Climbing
Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi
At the end of January and the start of February 2014 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent, and first free ascent, of Escalador Selvatico (7c+ max, 7a+ oblig, 630m) up the North Face of Akopan...
Jacopo Larcher repeats Prinzip Hoffnung in Austria
13/02/2014 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Prinzip Hoffnung in Austria
Italy's Jacopo Larcher has made the third ascent of Prinzip Hoffnung (8b/8b+, E9-E10), the trad climb first ascended in 2009 by Beat Kammerlander at Bürser Platte, Vorarlberg, Austria.
Eisarena Umbaltal, new ice climbing in Austria
12/02/2014 - Alpinism
Eisarena Umbaltal, new ice climbing in Austria
A series of new ice climbs and mixed routes have been established at a new ice climbing area called Eisarena Umbaltal, in East Tirol, Austria.
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
10/02/2014 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
The complete list of all 2013 ascents taken into consideration by the Piolets d'Or, from which the choice of nominees for the Piolets d'Or 2014 will be made.
Zweite Geige, new ice climb in the Dolomites by Leichtfried and Purner
06/02/2014 - Alpinism
Zweite Geige, new ice climb in the Dolomites by Leichtfried and Purner
On 28/01/2014 Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Bendikt Purner made the first ascent of Zweite Geige (WI7/M7, 140m) in Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
Climbing in Sardinia, trad and new multi-pitches
21/01/2014 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, trad and new multi-pitches
A January update by Maurizio Oviglia about the latest climbing news from Sardinia. This month: trad climbing at Regno di Onan, Capo Pecora, the Supramonte di Urzulei with the new route Sos de Urthullè and Villacidro with the new climb...
Montserrat, Eneko and Iker Pou climb Tarragó, the route that no longer exists
16/01/2014 - Climbing
Montserrat, Eneko and Iker Pou climb Tarragó, the route that no longer exists
At the end of November 2013 Iker Pou and his brother Eneko made the first free ascent of La Tarragó at Montserrat in Spain. The 240m line boasted difficulties up to 8b+ but subsequently the bolts were removed by unknown...