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Blåmann Wall, aid climbing up Atlantis on Kvaløya Island, Norway
09/10/2013 - Alpinism
Blåmann Wall, aid climbing up Atlantis on Kvaløya Island, Norway
Diego Pezzoli recounts his recent of the aid climb Atlantis (400m, A1+/A2, 8-/8) up the Blamann Wall, Kvaløya Island, Norway.
Kapura South, first ascent in Pakistan's Nangma Valley by Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo
02/10/2013 - Alpinism
Kapura South, first ascent in Pakistan's Nangma Valley by Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo
In early September 2013 the Portugese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent Kapura South (6350m) in the Nangma Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan, via their route Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4).
Crep de Boè, new Dolomites rock climb by Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner
30/09/2013 - Climbing
Crep de Boè, new Dolomites rock climb by Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner
In late September and Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner established Scharfe Helene (VIII-, 320m), Crep de Boè (2465m), Sella, Dolomites.
A Fish as a present. Attraverso il Pesce by Maurizio Oviglia
11/09/2013 - Alpinism
A Fish as a present. Attraverso il Pesce by Maurizio Oviglia
A legendary rock climb as a birthday present: via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route up the South Face of Marmolada. A pretext to remember once again that climbing and alpinism are a never ending evolution between dreams and reality.
Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali
05/09/2013 - Climbing
Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali
On 10/08/2013 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Dall’alba al tramonto (6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II, 230m), a new climb up the SE Face of Presolana Centrale.
Spina de Mul, new rock climb up Col Becchei by Gargitter and Kehrer
29/08/2013 - Alpinism
Spina de Mul, new rock climb up Col Becchei by Gargitter and Kehrer
The two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Helmut Gargitter introduce their route Spina de Mul (185m, 7c max, 7a obl.) first climbed in June 2012 up the south face of Col Becchei (Dolomites).
Dani Moreno, a successful summer in the Dolomites
27/08/2013 - Alpinism
Dani Moreno, a successful summer in the Dolomites
Spanish climber Dani Moreno provides his climbing trip report to the Italian Dolomites which includes highlights such as Bellavista on Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Sasha DiGiulian repeats Bellavista, Dolomites
16/08/2013 - Alpinism
Sasha DiGiulian repeats Bellavista, Dolomites
American climber Sasha DiGiulian has repeated Bellavista on Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
08/08/2013 - Alpinism
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in 1990 by Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault. Even today this...
Lisetta, new rock climb up Col dei Bos in the Dolomites
26/07/2013 - Climbing
Lisetta, new rock climb up Col dei Bos in the Dolomites
Last July Andrea Simonini, Giacomo Duzzi and Lorenzo Moretto made the ground-up first ascent of "Lisetta" (250m, IX-, 7b+) up Col dei Bos, Fanis, Dolomites.
Roland Hemetzberger adds a new climb to Loferer Alm
25/07/2013 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger adds a new climb to Loferer Alm
On 13 July 2013, the Germans Roland Hemetzberger and Fabian Hagenauer made the first free ascent of Sodom und Gomorrah (170m, 8a+/8b) up Sonnwand, Loferer Alm, Austria.
The new guidebook by Manolo: In Bilico... suspended between climbing history and the rock climbs in the Primiero Dolomites
23/07/2013 - Climbing
The new guidebook by Manolo: In Bilico... suspended between climbing history and the rock climbs in the Primiero Dolomites
A new guidebook by Manolo to the Primiero Dolomites has just been published. A preview to the book and the wizard's latest climb: the first free ascent of Pappagorgia at the crag Bilico in Val Canali, Italy.
James McHaffie repeats The Indian Face at Cloggy
11/07/2013 - Climbing
James McHaffie repeats The Indian Face at Cloggy
On 9 July James McHaffie made the fifth ascent of The Indian Face, E9 6c on Cloggy, Wales.
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
10/07/2013 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
In Alaska's Ruth Gorge the Austrians Alex Bluemel and Gerry Fiegl have made the first ascent of Beauty and the Beast (7a+ 650m A3) on the Gargoyle. Shortly afterwards the two Tyrolean mountaineers made the first repeat of the long Tooth Traverse. Gerry Fiegl provides the report.
Alta Val Masino and Venti Polari di Ivo Ferrari
01/07/2013 - Alpinism
Alta Val Masino and Venti Polari di Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and the rock climb Venti Polari, established up Punta Morasachini by Giuseppe "Popi" Miotti, Guido Merizzi and Federico Madonna.
A great day out: 5 Walter Bonatti routes climbed by Marco Anghileri
27/06/2013 - Climbing
A great day out: 5 Walter Bonatti routes climbed by Marco Anghileri
The great enchainment carried out by Italian alpinist Marco Anghileri on 25 June 2013. 5 routes first climbed by Walter Bonatti: on Bastionata del Resegone, Medale, Torre Costanza, Ago Teresita, Magnaghi. All repeated in a single day. Anghileri travelled by bike or on foot, but above all he climbed. His...

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