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Melloblocco 2011 - everyone's bouldering in Val Masino
15/04/2011 - Events
Melloblocco 2011 - everyone's bouldering in Val Masino
From 5 - 8 May 2011 the 8th edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy. The Melloblocco is the biggest and most important bouldering meeting in the world and this year it is dedicated to the International Year of Forests.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Park Hee Yong and Anna Gallyamova reign supreme
14/03/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Park Hee Yong and Anna Gallyamova reign supreme
The fourth and final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2011 drew to a close in Kirov, Russia on 8 March and was won by the Russians Maxim Tomilov and Anna Gallyamova. The Russians Maria Tolokonina and Pavel Gulayev were crowned Speed World Champions, while the winners of the...
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
01/03/2011 - Alpinism
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
On 01/02/2011 Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz and Thomas Scalise Meynet carried out the first repeat of Papillon (250m IV, 4, M6, 5°) a great modern mixed journey first ascended in 2003 in Valle d'Aosta above Brissogne by Alex Busca, Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
09/02/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2011 took place in Busteni, Romania on 5 and 6 February and was won by the Italian Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park from Korea. With this vicotry the two are also crowned World Champions, and this is Rainer's second consecutive...
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011, Bendler and Tolokonina win in Cheongsong, Korea
10/01/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011, Bendler and Tolokonina win in Cheongsong, Korea
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup took place in Cheongsong, Korea, on 8 and 9 January 2011 and was won by Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia. The Speed event was won by the Russians Maxim Tomilov and Irina Bagaeva.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...
Night Terror, Lobuche East, Kauffman shares ascent details
28/12/2010 - Alpinism
Night Terror, Lobuche East, Kauffman shares ascent details
Joel Kauffman reports about the ascent of Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°) on Lobuche East, Nepal, carried out with fellow American Jared Vilhauer.
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
14/12/2010 - Alpinism
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
Ski mountaineering on the largest glacier in the Italian Alps. Five ski tours described by the Mountain Guide Cain Olsen: Calotta, Ficazza, Pisgana, Pisganino and the legendary Adamello Tour.
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
09/12/2010 - Alpinism
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
Rosso 70, the film directed by Francesco Mansutti and Vinicio Stefanello and which retraces the 70 yera mountaineering history f the Scoiattoli mountaineering club in Cortina, has won the Jury's Special Prize during the Bulgaria's X° International Mountain Film Festival in Bansko
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
30/11/2010 - Alpinism
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Mount Kyzyl Asker: Papert, Senf and Russegger in Kyrgyzstan
10/11/2010 - Alpinism
Mount Kyzyl Asker: Papert, Senf and Russegger in Kyrgyzstan
Ines Papert, Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger have failed 200m shy of the summit in an attempt to establish a new line up Mount Kyzyl Asker, Kyrgyzstan.
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.
Vivian Quarry, slate climbing in North Wales
26/10/2010 - Climbing
Vivian Quarry, slate climbing in North Wales
Vivian Quarry is perhaps the most popular slate crag in Wales due to its proximity to Llanberis and the vast selection of routes of all shapes and sizes.
Transocean, new route on Wenden by Rathmayr and Ruhstaller
08/10/2010 - Climbing
Transocean, new route on Wenden by Rathmayr and Ruhstaller
Bernd Rathmayr and Reto Ruhstaller have established Transocean (7b+, 7a+ obl., 230m) on the Wendenstöcke in Switzerland.