618 News found

On 5 March 2011 Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla freed Eroi Fragili (8c, 30m), a new route he bolted in Val Noana (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) next to another of his creations, Stramonio.

Fabio Valseschini talks about his recent great winter solo ascent of the Via dei 5 di Valmadrera up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites), as well as his alpinism and his love for the mountains.

An in-depth interview with 26-year-old American alpinist Colin Haley, to discover his approach to alpinism, from Alaska to Patagonia.

Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).

On 23/01/2011 Giuseppe Ballico and Marco Milanesi carried out what is believe to be the first ascent of Solo per i tuoi occhi (300m, V, WI 5+ XRM), the massive drip on the ESE Face of Monte Pelmo, Dolomites.

Two new icefalls in the Floitental (Zillertal), Austria: Excalibur (WI6/R, 120m, Albert Leichtfried & Paul Mair 30/01/2011) and Quasimodo (M7 WI7, 90m, Benedikt Purner & Klaus Pietersteiner 03/02/2011).

After yesterday's historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan), Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now descended from Camp 3 to Camp 1.

On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world.

On 21 December Giuseppe 'Beppe' Ballico and Marco Milanese climbed "Cascata Per Leo" (270m, IV, WI 5+ XR) a beautiful icefall which rarely comes into condition on the SW Face of Croda Marcora (Sorapiss, Dolomites).

Joel Kauffman reports about the ascent of Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°) on Lobuche East, Nepal, carried out with fellow American Jared Vilhauer.

Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.

Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.

Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has added another dangerously desperate route to the British Isles, Die by the Drop E10 7a at Glenfinnan, Scotland.

On 22/10/2010 in Korea's capital Seoul the Japanese alpinists Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama won the fifth edition of the Piolet d'or Asia, while the lifetime achievement award went to their fellow countryman Tsuneo Hasegawa.

The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.

From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.