107 News found
06/12/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey Seb Bush from Italy, Simon Smith and Mike Turner from the UK have recently established 'Pretty reckless cats' a hard multi-pitch rock climb on the Northwest Face of Kizilin Basì in the Aladağlar National Park in southern Turkey. The 300m climb was established ground-up with the use of aid and...
14/09/2023 - Alpinism
Greenland 2023: ambitious Mirror Wall attempt abandoned by Cookson, Ditto, Favresse, Villanueva Franco Cookson, Ben Ditto, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva have attempted to forge a new big wall climb on the Mirror Wall in Greenland. As usual the group sailed from Scotland to Greenland. Favresse reports
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo (8b+, 550m).
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
25/11/2022 - Alpinism
Saraghrar Piolet d'Or 2022 video Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia received the 2022 Piolets d'Or for the first ascent of the NW Face of Saraghrar Northwest in Pakistan.
25/10/2022 - Alpinism
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert In August 2022 Slovenian climber Luka Lindič freed one of hardest lines in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, 'Invisible Transformation' on the iconic face Ajdovska deklica, the Heathen Maiden, of Mount Prisojnik. The testing multi-pitch close to Kranjska Gora was established ground-up with his partner Ines Papert in the summers...
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
05/04/2022 - Alpinism
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin From 23-25 March 2022 Clint Helander and Andres Marin completed the first ascent of 'The Shaft of the Abyss' (VI AI5R M5 90° Snow A0 ca. 4,000’), a huge new mixed climb up the east face of awe-inspiring Mt. Golgotha in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.
15/02/2021 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia Interview with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia, carried out solo from 5 to 10 February and christened the Moonwalk Traverse by the Belgian mountaineer. This is only the second time that the iconic skyline of Patagonia has been climbed in its entirety in a single...
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020 Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...
09/04/2020 - Alpinism
Piz Ciavazes Dolomites mixed climbed repeated by Hofer, Oberlechner Hannes Hofer reports about the repeat carried out on 11 January 2020 with Mark Oberlechner of Tiroler Wasser, Acqua Tirolese, a mixed climb up Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites) established in 2013 by Kurt Astner and Rudolf Hauser.
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