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Manolo and Bellissima... six hours to bolt it, six minutes to free it
29/04/2016 - Climbing
Manolo and Bellissima... six hours to bolt it, six minutes to free it
Manolo talks about the 35m sports climb he bolted and freed on the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola, Italy. The route is called Bellissimo… gorgeous, and perhaps there’s a reason why.
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the reconnaissance phase is longer than expected.
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
19/04/2016 - Events
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti, the historical organisers of Melloblocco, talk about the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016. Over 1300 climbers are set to take part in the 13th...
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
From 17 - 19 March 2016 German climber Fabian Buhl made a solo ascent of Wetterbock, a 10-pitch 8c freed in 2014 by Alexander Huber up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
11/04/2016 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of 'Ma belle ma muse', an 8c+ sports climb at Romeyer in France.
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
08/04/2016 - Climbing
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
On April 4, 2016 British climber Paul Pritchard summited the Totem Pole, the amazing obelisk in Tasmania where he suffered a nigh fatal fall in 1998. As a result of that incident Pritchard was left partially paralysed and now, 18 years later, his ascent celebrates a conquest and circle that...
Chamonix - Zermatt, Bastien Fleury and Olivier Meynet set new ski traverse record
Chamonix - Zermatt, Bastien Fleury and Olivier Meynet set new ski traverse record
On 21 March 2016 Frenchmen Bastien Fleury and Olivier Meynet set a new record on the Chamonix - Zermatt Haute Route ski mountaineering traverse, stopping the clock after 16 hours and 35 minutes, smashing the record set in 2013 by Lionel Claudepierre by two hours.
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
26/02/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
On Friday 26 February 2016 Italy's Simone Moro, Spain's Alex Txikon and Pakistan's Ali Sadpara successfully carried out the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan). Italy's Tamara Lunger stopped her bid on the ridge below the summit. Towards 20:00 circa (Pakistan time) all four alpinists returned...
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
Robert Antonioli and Laetitia Roux win Transcavallo Sprint Race
21/02/2016 - Competitions
Robert Antonioli and Laetitia Roux win Transcavallo Sprint Race
On Saturday 20 February the Ski Mountaineering World Cup Transcavallo Sprint Race was won by Robert Antonioli and Laetitia Roux.
Video: Arnaud Petit, Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior climbing in Oman
11/02/2016 - Climbing
Video: Arnaud Petit, Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior climbing in Oman
The second video of Arnaud Petit, Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior in Oman, where they climbed at Hadash and the mountain Jebel Misht.
Victoria Kreuzer and Kilian Jornet Burgada win the Vertical Race European Championships
Victoria Kreuzer and Kilian Jornet Burgada win the vertical Race European Championships
At Les Marecottes in Switzerland the vertical Race European Ski Mountaineering Championships were won by Victoria Kreuzer and Kilian Jornet Burgada.