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Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
22/07/2016 - Alpinism
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari climbs the North-West Arête, also known as Via W.H. on the West face of the Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites). This classic outing was first climbed on 09/05/1971 by Heini Holzer and Sieglinde Walzl.
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years old. Both were expert alpinists. Iannilli was definitely one of...
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Dino Lagni flashes 8c at Piccoli
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Dino Lagni flashes 8c at Piccoli
The 48-year-old climber Bernadino Lagni has made a flash ascent of Mantieni la calma, an 8c sports climb at the northern Italian crag Ai Piccoli (VI).
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
11/07/2016 - Climbing
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
Swiss climbers Louis Piguet, who has shown a particular interested in the problem about replacing rusty anchors and corroded AISI 304 stainless steel bolts, continues his titanic work of re-equipping the marine crags along Sardinia’s coastline.
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
29/06/2016 - Alpinism
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
Marco Bozzetta introduces Occhi d’acqua (7b, 210m), a new multi-pitch rock climb established ground-up in September 2015 together with Costante Carpella up the south face of Torre del Formenton, Val Fredda, Dolomiti. Dolomites.
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
26/06/2016 - Competitions
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
The 2017 ISMF World Cup season contains 11 races in 5 different countries including, for the first time, Turkey. The traditional Grande Course competitions will no longer be part of the World Cup circuit.
Martin Keller is The Highlander at Sustenpass in Switzerland
24/06/2016 - Climbing
Martin Keller is The Highlander at Sustenpass in Switzerland
Bouldering: after a 13-year courtship verging on the obsession, Swiss climber Martin Keller has amde the first ascent of The Highlander, an 8C problem at Sustenpass in Switzerland.
Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
21/06/2016 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
Following legislation issued earlier today by the Municipality of Rocca Pietore, it is forbidden to climb the route Via dell’Ideale up Punta Rocca (Punta d'Ombretta), Marmolada south face, Dolomites from 21 June to 15 July 2016.
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
14/06/2016 - Climbing
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
Alessio Roverato provides the report and topo of Angelo Mio (250m, 7a +, 6c obl), a new rock climb he established together with Angela Carrar on Monte Spitz in Val Gadena (Valsugana VI).
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Pedra Longa, its climbing and the video Luce senza memoria
08/06/2016 - Climbing
Pedra Longa, its climbing and the video Luce senza memoria
Climbing video: Maurizio Oviglia introduces his video of Luce senza memoria, the long traverse around Pedra Longa in Sardinia, first climbed in 1981 by Marco Bernardi and Alessandro Gogna.
Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview.
03/06/2016 - Interviews
Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview.
Interview with German climber Alexander Megos who on 31/05/2016 repeated Hubble, the climb first ascended by Ben Moon in 1990 at Raven Tor, UK, hailed as the world’s first 8c+.
Melloblocco 2016 video: Smart Climbing Festival
30/05/2016 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2016 video: Smart Climbing Festival
A video about the spirit of Melloblocco, the international climbing and bouldering meeting that took place in Val Masino - Val di Mello, Italy, from 5 to 8 May 2016.
Mont Blanc Major Route: ski descent by Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra Dano
Mont Blanc Major Route: ski descent by Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra Dano
On 6 May 2016 the mountain guides from Courmayeur Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra Dano skied the Major Route down the East Face of Mont Blanc. Theirs is only the second descent of this line in 37 years, after the first descent carried out by Stefano de Benedetti on 7...

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