873 News found

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East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
23/09/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
Last July Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli made the first ascent of Chappie (7b+, 600m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the granite giant La Esfinge in Peru.
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
22/09/2015 - Climbing
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
This summer Luca Cornella Michel Ghezzi made the first ascent of La Guerriera, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Bassa d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Manolo: Weg durch den Fisch, climbing the Marmolada Fish route thirty years later
11/09/2015 - Climbing
Manolo: Weg durch den Fisch, climbing the Marmolada Fish route thirty years later
After 30 years Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla returns to climb Via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route on the Marmolada South Face in the Dolomites… and experience those (ghastly and unrepeatable) moments, those distant memories that resurface in an unexpected perspective.
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.
Ulamertorsuaq, Swiss attempt to free climb Piteraq in Greenland
27/08/2015 - Alpinism
Ulamertorsuaq, Swiss attempt to free climb Piteraq in Greenland
Over a ten-day period in July 2015 Silvan Schüpbach and Bernadette Zak attempted to make the first free ascent of the 1200m high Piteraq up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland. Except for a 3m pendulum on pitch 22, the swiss alpinists climbed everything free with difficulties up 7c, R, X.
Croux, rock climbing in Valgrisenche, Italy
19/08/2015 - Climbing
Croux, rock climbing in Valgrisenche, Italy
Luca Bastia introduces Croux, in Valgrisenche, the beautiful crag Valle d’Aosta, ideal for rock climbing on hot summer days.
New climbing area at Bec de Roces
03/08/2015 - Climbing
New climbing area at Bec de Roces
The Bec de Roces are a group of towers located at the bottom of the Sella group, in a panoramic position between the valley of Arabba and the Alta Badia, above the Campolongo Pass (Dolomiti).
Conrad Anker & David Lama climb Latent Core in Zion, USA
17/07/2015 - Climbing
Conrad Anker & David Lama climb Latent Core in Zion, USA
Conrad Anker and David Lama have completed the first ascent of Latent Core (450m, 5.11 A1) in Zion National Park, USA.
Nina Caprez and Marc le Menestrel repeat Hannibals Alptraum in Rätikon
16/07/2015 - Interviews
Nina Caprez and Marc le Menestrel repeat Hannibals Alptraum in Rätikon
Interview with Nina Caprez who, together with Marc le Menestrel, repeated Hannibals Alptraum, the smooth limestone testpiece first climbed in 1986 by Martin Scheel and Robert Bösch in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif.
Steve McClure repeats Choronzon in Pembroke, Wales
15/07/2015 - Climbing
Steve McClure repeats Choronzon in Pembroke, Wales
At Stack Rocks in Pembroke, Wales, UK Steve McClure has made the first repeat of Choronzon E10 7a.
Val di Mello, Simone Pedeferri climbs new route on Scoglio della Metamorfosi
03/07/2015 - Climbing
Val di Mello, Simone Pedeferri climbs new route on Scoglio della Metamorfosi
In April 2015 Simone Pedeferri made the first ascent of "Io non ho paura" (225m, max 8b+, 7b obligatory) a new rock climb established together with Alberto Marazzi on Scoglio della Metamorfosi in Val di Mello. The route is dedicated to Luciano Barbieri.
Spirito Baldense, new multi-pitch rock climb Val d'Adige, Italy
23/05/2015 - Climbing
Spirito Baldense, new multi-pitch rock climb Val d'Adige, Italy
Beppe Vidali, Sergio Coltri, Diego Perotti, Sebastiano Munari and Giuliana Steccanella have made the first ascent of Spirito Baldense (6b, 150m) on Spalti di Pratovecchio in Val d'Adige, Italy.
L'Ora del Garda, Larcher and Giupponi climb new route at Mandrea (Arco)
20/05/2015 - Climbing
L'Ora del Garda, Larcher and Giupponi climb new route at Mandrea (Arco)
Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi, during five days from November 2013 to March 2015, made the first ascent of L'Ora del Garda (355m, 8a max, 7b+ obligatory), a challenging and beautiful new route up Mandrea Laghel (Arco, Sarca Valley, Italy). On 24/03/2015 the two made the route's first free ascent....
Pain de Sucre and the Voie Originale descent by Capozzi, Herry and Civra Dano
Pain de Sucre and the Voie Originale descent by Capozzi, Herry and Civra Dano
David Capozzi reports about the 10 May first snowboard and ski descent, carried out together with Julien Herry and Francesco Civra Dano, of the entire Voie Originale down the North Face of Pain de Sucre, Mont Blanc.
Breche Victor Chaud - Couloir Pèlas Verney
Breche Victor Chaud - Couloir Pèlas Verney
The magnificent ski descent down Couloir Pèlas Verney on Breche Victor Chaud (3142m) in France's Écrins massif. By Mattia Salvi.

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