Spirito Baldense, new multi-pitch rock climb Val d'Adige, Italy
Beppe Vidali, Sergio Coltri, Diego Perotti, Sebastiano Munari and Giuliana Steccanella have made the first ascent of Spirito Baldense (6b, 150m) on Spalti di Pratovecchio in Val d'Adige, Italy.
Yes, Spirito Baldense the new route put up by Beppe Vidali. A logical line, a perfect crack from the base right up to below the roof, then it deviates left to finish up an easy pillar. Beppe started the route last autumn with Diego Perotti and Sebastiano Munari but a large crack at the start of pitch 3 proved too difficult… they returned home disappointed but for his birthday he received a Friend #6, just what he needed to complete the route.
Like a kid in the candy store he asked me if I wanted to help on the last pitches, with my Friends I’d bought for other dreams… he managed to place a bolt and finish the pitch. The first 4 pitches are bolted but there’s still some unfinished business so legendary Sergio Coltri is called in and, with ease, he breaches the crux. The route’s in the bag, all that’s needed is to complete the easy exit up the pillar. This gets done on 20 April, abseiling in from above to clean the route properly and remove all loose rock.
Old pegs were found up to pitch 3, but the route was probably never completed. The route has been bolted to make it safe for all but the route nevertheless has an alpine feel to it. A particular thanks to Laac Caprino
by Giuliana Steccanella
TOPO: Spirito Baldense, Spalti di Pratovecchio, Val d'Adige