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Spirito Baldense

First ascent: Sergio Coltri, Beppe Vidali
By: Planetmountain
Area: Val Adige, Group: Brentino, Peak: Spalti di Pratovecchio, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

A logical route, previously noticed by climbers from Avio but completed by Beppe Vidali and Sergio Coltri. Excellent rock, difficulties never too extreme, set in a wild area yet accessable area. Bolted climb with a distinctly alpine feel.

GETTING THERE

The route is located inVal d'Avio. From Avio drive to San Valentino and you park on the road at the signs for Contrada Piagù. From the parking lot you can already make out the clear line of the corner and crack.

ACCESS

Reach Paigù then head left along the path; leave this at the Madonna and head left along the track to reach the base of the of route (at present the path isn’t very clear). 40-50 minutes.

ROUTE

P1 5c
P2: 5b
P3: 6b
P4: 6a
P5: 6b
P6: 5b

DESCENT

You can either abseil downy he route or, from the last belay, traverse left along the ledge, enter the wood, keep right, continue past the first steep gully on the right to reach a plateau next to a second, wider gully. Descend this and join the path that leads to the base of the route.

NOTES

Old pegs were found up to pitch 3, but the route was probably never completed. The route has been bolted to make it safe for all but the route nevertheless has an alpine feel to it. A particular thanks to Laac Caprino

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DIFFICULTY

6b

LENGTH

150m

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