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New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
Stevie Haston frees Descente Lolitta 9a
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Stevie Haston frees Descente Lolitta 9a
52 year old British climber Stevie Haston has made the first ascent of Descente Lolitta 9a at the Grotte de Sabart in Ariege, France.
Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
14/09/2009 - Climbing
Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
In August Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria made the first ascent of 'Power of Silence' 400m, 5.13a on the Middle Huey Spire in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada.
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
09/09/2009 - Climbing
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
In August 2009 the Spanish brothers Eneko and Iker Pou carried out the first ascent of Orbayu 8c+/9a, 510m Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain which they describe as their most important route ever.
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
08/09/2009 - Climbing
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
06/09/2009 - Competitions
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
Angela Eiter from Austria has won her fifth Rock Master, Ramòn Julien Puigblanque his fourth. With these victories the two equal the records set by legendary climbers Lynn Hill and Francois Legrand.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
02/09/2009 - Alpinism
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian route on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.
Rock Master and Arco Rock Legends 2009, all the main players of this stellar climbing competition
02/09/2009 - Competitions
Rock Master and Arco Rock Legends 2009, all the main players of this stellar climbing competition
The 23rd Rock Master will take place on Saturday 5 and Sunday 6 September in Arco (Lake Garda, Trentino, Italy). The classic Arco Rock Legends will prelude the event on Friday 4 Septembr with the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award, the sport climbing Oscars. Information about...
New routes in the Dolomites
01/09/2009 - Climbing
New routes in the Dolomites
On the Sella Towers Manuel Stuflesser and Norbert Weiss have carried out the first ascent of Batajan (7+, 325m), while Massimo da Pozzo added Via Zoe (300m, 7b max, 7a oblig) on the Lastoni di Formin, Dolomites.
Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
31/08/2009 - Climbing
Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
In August Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski from Poland climbed a virgin peak and established two big new routes in remote area of Torsukattak fjord in southern Greenland.
Valle del Orco, Greenspit repeats and new route flurry
31/08/2009 - Climbing
Valle del Orco, Greenspit repeats and new route flurry
At the start of August a strong British team travelled to Italy's Valle del Orco where they managed to carry out the third ascent of Greenspit and forge five new routes high above the valley floor.
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
28/08/2009 - Climbing
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
Two of Britain's most emblematic sport routes, Hubble 8c+ at Raven Tor and Liquid Ambar 8c at Lower Pen Trwyn, have recently been repeated by Steve McClure and Pete Robins respectively. The two climbs in question were established in 1990 by none other than Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt and...
Manfred Stuffer solo climbing on the Sella, Dolomites
25/08/2009 - Climbing
Manfred Stuffer solo climbing on the Sella, Dolomites
On 14/07/2009 Manfred Stuffer soloed the routes Geo, Regenbogen, Quo Vadis, Brusin and Brugger Walde on the Sella, Dolomites, in a mere 3.5 hours.
Dolomites climbing: Hansjörg Auer frees Silberschrei on Sass de la Crusc and on-sights La Cattedrale in Marmolada together with Much Mayr
12/08/2009 - Alpinism
Dolomites climbing: Hansjörg Auer frees Silberschrei on Sass de la Crusc and on-sights La Cattedrale in Marmolada together with Much Mayr
An intense couple of months for Hansjörg Auer: together with Thomas Schreiber he recently carried out the first ascent of Silberschrei on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites, before a lightening fast trip to England with Much Mayr which resulted in a fast ascent of Gaia. The two then...

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