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New Picos de Europa 8c multi-pitch by Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá
11/09/2020 - Alpinism
New Picos de Europa 8c multi-pitch by Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Kico Cerdá have made the first free ascent of Rayu (8c, 600m) on the south face of the Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain.
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
09/09/2020 - Alpinism
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
08/09/2020 - Climbing
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
Britain’s Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have both repeated an E9 trad route by climbing, respectively, The Final Round at Illam Rock in England and Chupacabra at Pembroke in Wales.
Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy
07/09/2020 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy
Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of Ellipsis, a five-pitch climb with difficulties up to 8b+ on Mt. Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy.
Filip Babicz races up Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1 hour 30 minutes
31/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz races up Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1 hour 30 minutes
On 27/08/2020 Filip Babicz soloed the South Ridge of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in a blazing time of 1:30:14.
Alta infedeltà climbed Sasso delle Undici Marmolada, Dolomites
28/08/2020 - Alpinism
Alta infedeltà climbed Sasso delle Undici Marmolada, Dolomites
Alta infedeltà, High infidelity, is a multi-pitch rock climb established on 22 June 2020 on Sasso delle Undici in Marmolada, Dolomites by the mountain guides Thomas Gianola and Fabrizio Della Rossa. The seven pitch outing breaches difficulties up to VI-.
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
27/08/2020 - Alpinism
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse reports about Dall'inferno al Paradiso, from hell to heaven, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Torre del Gran San Pietro above the Piantonetto Valley (Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy) first ascended with Stefano Perrone.
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
20/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse have made a single-day, ground-up repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider (240m, 8b+), first ascended by Stefan Glowacz in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria in 1994.
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless Children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto
01/08/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto
Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of...
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
First ascent climbing contest at Barliard in Ollomont valley, Valle d'Aosta
09/07/2020 - Climbing
First ascent climbing contest at Barliard in Ollomont valley, Valle d'Aosta
A new contest has been launched at the crag Barliard in the Ollomont valley in Valle d’Aosta, Italy where two sport climbs have been bolted and await a first ascent. The first male and female climbers to free the routes will receive climbing equipment to the equivalent of € 1,000.