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Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
04/12/2009 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
Hansjörg Auer has carried out the first free ascent of Vogelfrei (8b/8b+ 400m), on the South Face of the Schüsselkarspitze, Austria.
Chang Himal North Face, Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock ascent details
13/11/2009 - Alpinism
Chang Himal North Face, Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock ascent details
The details of the first ascent of the 1800m high North Face of Chang Himal, Kanchenjunga Himalaya, Nepal, climbed in a five day alpine-style push by the British alpinists Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman at ED+.
Parc National des Calanques - climbing at risk in the future French park?
09/11/2009 - Environment
Parc National des Calanques - climbing at risk in the future French park?
Climbing and other low-impact sports such as canoing and hiking may be at risk at the planned Calanques National Park in France. A group called "Association des Calanques et des Hommes" is asking for climbers to sign their petition online in order to participate in roundtable discussions for the management...
Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
27/10/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
Interview with Adam Ondra who on 20/10/2009 made the first ascent of his hardest route ever, Marina Superstar at Bronx at the crag Grotta San Giovanni in Sardinia. The young Czech climber has "suggested" 9a+/b!
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Charakusa Valley, new big wall in Karakorum
28/09/2009 - Alpinism
Charakusa Valley, new big wall in Karakorum
In August 2009 a four man team from Australia and New Zealand established Naughty Daddies (630m 7b), a new route on Nafees Cap, the massive granite spire detached from K7 in the Charakusa Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
09/09/2009 - Climbing
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
In August 2009 the Spanish brothers Eneko and Iker Pou carried out the first ascent of Orbayu 8c+/9a, 510m Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain which they describe as their most important route ever.
Dave Macleod climbs new route on Torridon, Scotland
22/06/2009 - Climbing
Dave Macleod climbs new route on Torridon, Scotland
On Saturday 20 June Dave Macleod carried out the first ascent of Kolus E8 6c on Torridon, Scotland.
Dinas Cromlech, rock climbing in Wales
05/06/2009 - Climbing
Dinas Cromlech, rock climbing in Wales
There can be few crags in Wales, and the entire UK, as important as Dinas Cromlech. Situated high above the Llanberis valley this historic cliff, famously shaped like an open-book, boasts some of the best extreme rock climbs anywhere.
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
14/05/2009 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
In January the Slovenian climbers Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic made a rare ascent of Cia del Tehuelche up the North Face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia.
Sottoguda ice climbing, Marmolada, Dolomites
18/03/2009 - Alpinism
Sottoguda ice climbing, Marmolada, Dolomites
A selection of icefalls at Sottoguda, one of the most important venues in NE Italy.
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
13/03/2009 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
Beat Kammerlander has made the first ascent of the trad route "Prinzip Hoffnung" (8b/8b+, E9-E10) at the Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg, Austria.
Scotland winter climbing update
13/03/2009 - Alpinism
Scotland winter climbing update
Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on Beinn Eighe.
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
12/03/2009 - Climbing
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
11/03/2009 - Alpinism
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...