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News in archive
Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only
16/11/2009 - Climbing
Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only
Michele Caminati talks about the broken hold on Dreamtime, the legendary boulder problem established by Fred Nicole in 2000 at Cresciano, Switzerland.
Etxauri, sport climbing in Spain
13/11/2009 - Climbing
Etxauri, sport climbing in Spain
Local climber and guidebook writer Ekaitz Maiz introduces Etxauri, with more than 800 routes from 4a to 9a one of the most important crags in the Basque country, Spain.
Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
10/11/2009 - Climbing
Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
45 year old Arthur Kubista has made the first ascent of Der lange Atem 9a+ at Schattenreich, Höllental, Austria. Maurizio Oviglia recounts this latest ascent of one of the strongest and least known Austrian climbers of all times.
Verdon Gorge rock climbing in France
06/11/2009 - Climbing
Verdon Gorge rock climbing in France
A selection of rock climbs in the fantastic Verdon Gorge, France, an area which witnessed the entire evolution of sport climbing.
Tomáš Mrázek frees Xaxid Hostel 9a+ at Misja Pec, Slovenia
06/11/2009 - Climbing
Tomáš Mrázek frees Xaxid Hostel 9a+ at Misja Pec, Slovenia
Tomas Mrazek from the Czech Republic has made the first ascent of Xaxid Hostel 9a+ at Misja Pec, Slovenia
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
03/11/2009 - Climbing
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.
Greenland climbing Plaisir 2009
02/11/2009 - Climbing
Greenland climbing Plaisir 2009
In July Mountain Guides Michele Maggioni and Daniele Bernasconi established two new routes around Disko Island, Qioqe Peninsula, Greenland
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
30/10/2009 - Climbing
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
Jörg Andreas and Felix Neumärker from Germany carried out the first repeat of Zahir on the Wendenstöcke in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, extending a pitch and upgrading it to 8c.
Charlotte Durif 8c+ climbing fest in France
30/10/2009 - Climbing
Charlotte Durif 8c+ climbing fest in France
In October Charlotte Durif from France carried out the first ascents of two 8c+, Pull Over at the Grotte de Galetas in Verdon and The Wall at Combe La Vielle.
Alessandro Lamberti frees La Morte 8c at Pietrasecca
29/10/2009 - Climbing
Alessandro Lamberti frees La Morte 8c at Pietrasecca
Alessandro Jolly Lamberti has made the first free ascent of "La Morte" 8c at Pietrasecca, bolted 22 years ago by Andrea Di Bari.
Ekaitz Maiz climbs new 9a at Etxauri, Spain
28/10/2009 - Climbing
Ekaitz Maiz climbs new 9a at Etxauri, Spain
Ekaitz Maiz has made the first ascent of Basapiztien eremua 9a at Etxauri, Spain.
Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
27/10/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
Interview with Adam Ondra who on 20/10/2009 made the first ascent of his hardest route ever, Marina Superstar at Bronx at the crag Grotta San Giovanni in Sardinia. The young Czech climber has "suggested" 9a+/b!
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
26/10/2009 - Climbing
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.
The Roaches, rock climbing in England
23/10/2009 - Climbing
The Roaches, rock climbing in England
For many the atmospheric Roaches is simply the best gritstone crag in England.
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
23/10/2009 - Climbing
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.
Matteo Gambaro frees Azione Diretta 8c+/9a at Piatta di Montemale, Italy
22/10/2009 - Climbing
Matteo Gambaro frees Azione Diretta 8c+/9a at Piatta di Montemale, Italy
On 17 October Matteo Gambaro made the first ascent of Azione Diretta 8c+/9a at Borgata Piatta a Montemale, Cuneo, Italy.

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