Black Bean, 8b trad for Arnaud Petit at Ceuse
Arnaud Petit has climbed Black Bean 8b at Ceuse in France using trad gear only.
We'd heard the rumours for months, now it's official: at Ceuse, the most famous summer crag in Europe, Arnaud Petit has repeated Black Bean 8b in using trad gear only.
The route in question is located on the most beautiful wall at the crag, namely Biographie, and was freed by Bruno Clement and protected with bolts. Petit has been climbing at Ceuse for over 20 years and "for the fun of it, for the magic of rediscovering what the rock offers" he climbed the 65 meter routes with just a set of camming devices, nuts and threads. The climbing and run-outs, from what we heard, were spectacular. Just like the video below. For the record: the bolts were left in-situ, for all those who want to repeat it in its "original" state.
