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'Sikunga Express' first ascent on Baffin Island by Erik Boomer, Ky Hart
20/06/2025 - Alpinism
'Sikunga Express' first ascent on Baffin Island by Erik Boomer, Ky Hart
From 1 - 23 May 2025 American alpinists Erik Boomer and Ky Hart have made the first ascent of 'Sikunga Express' (WI3 M7 5.10 A3+, 975m, 19 pitches) on Baffin Island, Canada.
'Le Poussin' multipitch aid climb added to Verdon Gorge, France
10/06/2025 - Climbing
'Le Poussin' multipitch aid climb added to Verdon Gorge, France
French climbers Léo Billon, Esteban Daligault and Kilian Moni have made the first ascent of 'Le Poussin', a new multipitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France. The 250m line is graded A3+ and shares some sections of 'Guy Heran'.
'A State Of Trance' established on Cima Busazza by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
13/05/2025 - Alpinism
'A State Of Trance' established on Cima Busazza by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 05/02/2025 manuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'A State Of Trance' on the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella group of the Italian Alps.
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
01/04/2025 - Alpinism
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
The report by Silvan Schüpbach about the first ascent of 'Luce e Tenebre' on the north face of Punta Pioda, also known as Pioda di Sciora in Switzerland, established from 6 - 9 March 2025 together with fellow Swiss alpinists Filippo Sala and Roger Schäli.
All-woman team establishes 'Apollo 13' in Rio Turbio IV valley (Patagonia)
25/03/2025 - Alpinism
All-woman team establishes 'Apollo 13' in Rio Turbio IV valley (Patagonia)
An all-woman team comprised of Julia Cassou, Rocío Rodríguez Guiñazú, Fay Manners, Caroline North and Belén Prados spent five weeks in Northern Patagonia's Río Turbio IV valley, where they made the first ascent of 'Apollo 13' on the previously unclimbed El Cohete peak. Manners reports.
'Gringos Locos' on Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia finally completed by Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard, Mirco Grasso
03/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Gringos Locos' on Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia finally completed by Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard, Mirco Grasso
On the west face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard, and Mirco Grasso have completed Gringos Locos. The route was first attempted in 1995 by Maurizio Giordani and Luca Maspes, who had managed to climb more than three-quarters up the face.
Léo Billon & Enzo Oddo establish 'Les Barbares 3' on Pré de Bar (Mont Blanc massif)
25/02/2025 - Alpinism
Léo Billon & Enzo Oddo establish 'Les Barbares 3' on Pré de Bar (Mont Blanc massif)
From 18 - 20 February 2025 French alpinists Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo made the first ascent of 'Les Barbares 3' on Pré de Bar in the Mont Blanc massif.
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
25/09/2024 - Climbing
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
This summer Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll established a new climb up the centre of the Mirror Wall in Greenland. The 1000m big wall is graded 8b/R/A2+ and has been called 'Ryu-shin', in memory of their friend and climbing partner Keita Kurakami.
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Riders on the Storm on Torres del Paine in Patagonia climbed free by Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, Villanueva
19/02/2024 - Alpinism
Riders on the Storm on Torres del Paine in Patagonia climbed free by Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, Villanueva
Over a 18-day period from 24 January to 10 February 2024 'Riders on the Storm', one of the most famous big wall climbs in Patagonia located on the Central Tower in the Torres del Paine massif, was finally climbed free by Nico Favresse, Siebe Vanhee, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and Drew...
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
06/12/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
Seb Bush from Italy, Simon Smith and Mike Turner from the UK have recently established 'Pretty reckless cats' a hard multi-pitch rock climb on the Northwest Face of Kizilin Basì in the Aladağlar National Park in southern Turkey. The 300m climb was established ground-up with the use of aid and...
Greenland 2023: ambitious Mirror Wall attempt abandoned by Cookson, Ditto, Favresse, Villanueva
14/09/2023 - Alpinism
Greenland 2023: ambitious Mirror Wall attempt abandoned by Cookson, Ditto, Favresse, Villanueva
Franco Cookson, Ben Ditto, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva have attempted to forge a new big wall climb on the Mirror Wall in Greenland. As usual the group sailed from Scotland to Greenland. Favresse reports
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo (8b+, 550m).
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.