'A State Of Trance' established on Cima Busazza by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza

On 5 February 2025, Stefano Falezza and I opened this new route on the steepest section of the entire wall: the sheer, overhanging rock shield that dominates the right side of the face. To overcome it, we needed three challenging dry-tooling pitches, which became the "highlight" of the entire route. For the rest of the climb, we simul-climbed thyanks to the significantly easier terrain.

These three demanding pitches delivered sustained, physical climbing, with good pro ina solid cracks. It was thrilling to consistently find excellent ice axe placements, though the granite outside the cracks was often completely smooth, offering no holds whatsoever for our crampons. This factor, combined with the steepness, rendered the climbing demanding.

On the three hard pitches, I took several"rests — hanging on the gear, partly to clear snow and loose rocks from the cracks and, admittedly, partly to recover from the grueling effort. I never resorted to full aid climbing, as I never pulled directly from one piece of pro to the next. Instead, I climbed all sections between rests. For those interested, the first free ascent of the route is still up for grabs, and now that we’ve thoroughly cleaned the rock, an on-sight attempt is entirely feasible.

- Emanuele Andreozzi, Trento