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Punta Pilocca... multi-pitches! Sardinia's historic climbing revamped
02/03/2016 - Climbing
Punta Pilocca... multi-pitches! Sardinia's historic climbing revamped
Over the past two months Corrado Pibiri and climbing partners have revamped some historical multi-pitch rock climbs at Punta Pilocca, one of Sardinia’s most beautiful crags. As always, some new routes were created by Pibiri, Fabrizio Lampis, Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia, who now provides the most recent updates.
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
12/02/2016 - Alpinism
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
During the summer 2015 Ulrich Viertler and Raffaele Sebastiani made the first ascent of "Die Leiden des Jurgen Werther" (250m, VIII+/IX- , R3, III:EX), a new alpine trad climb up Punta del Pin, Prags Dolomites.
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
29/01/2016 - Climbing
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces trad crack climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy.
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
18/01/2016 - Alpinism
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
From 29 to 30 December 2015 the alpinists Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth carried out the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of La storia infinita, the route established in 1990 up the NE Face of Mt. Agner (Dolomites) by the Czech brothers Miroslav Coubal and Michal Coubal.
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
14/01/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek...
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
12/01/2016 - Alpinism
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
The report by Alessandro Baù who, in summer 2015 together with Claudio Migliorini and Giovanni Zaccaria, made the first ascent of Gigi La Trottola (IX, 450m) up the west face of Mulaz, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.
Ueli Steck sets new speed record on Eiger North Face
18/11/2015 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck sets new speed record on Eiger North Face
On 16/11/2015 Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck climbed the Heckmair route up the North Face of the Eiger in 2 hours and 22 minutes, beating the previous record set in 2011 by Dani Arnold by 6 minutes
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his brother Vitus on the South Face of Marmolada (Dolomites).
La farfalla tigre, new mixed climb up Cima Bifora, Monte Nero di Presanella
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
La farfalla tigre, new mixed climb up Cima Bifora, Monte Nero di Presanella
Giancarlo Bellotti, Fernando Fusari and Giovanni Ghezzi have started their winter climbing season in style with the first ascent of the mixed outing La farfalla tigre (WI4 M6, 430m) on Cima Bifora (Monte Nero di Presanella, Adamello-Presanella group, Central Alps).
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25/09/2015 - Climbing
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
23/09/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
Last July Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli made the first ascent of Chappie (7b+, 600m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the granite giant La Esfinge in Peru.
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
22/09/2015 - Climbing
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
This summer Luca Cornella Michel Ghezzi made the first ascent of La Guerriera, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Bassa d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Manolo: Weg durch den Fisch, climbing the Marmolada Fish route thirty years later
11/09/2015 - Climbing
Manolo: Weg durch den Fisch, climbing the Marmolada Fish route thirty years later
After 30 years Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla returns to climb Via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route on the Marmolada South Face in the Dolomites… and experience those (ghastly and unrepeatable) moments, those distant memories that resurface in an unexpected perspective.
Hansjörg Auer free solos Mephisto on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites
09/09/2015 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer free solos Mephisto on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites
On 26 August 2015 the Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer made a free solo climb of Mephisto, the route established in 1979 by Reinhard Schiestl and Luggi Rieser on Sass de Crusc in the Dolomites