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Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
14/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
This morning at 05.25 European time the dead body of Slovenian alpinist Tomasz Humar was recovered from 5600m on the South Face of Langtang Lirung (7230m, Nepal) by a helicopter with a rescue team comprised of Swissmen Robert Andenmatten and Simon Anthmatten (Air Zermatt) and the Italians Oskar Piazza and...
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
13/10/2009 - Climbing
Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
Sarah Seeger climbs Steinbock 8c in the Frankenjura, Markus Bock creates his hardest to date, The Man That Follows Hell 9a+, while Adam Ondra makes swift work of two other testpieces in Germany's premier climbing area.
Totem Pole Tasmania, original Ewbank route climbed free
02/10/2009 - Climbing
Totem Pole Tasmania, original Ewbank route climbed free
All individual pitches of the original climb up the Totem Pole in Tasmania, Australia, were freed in January by Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins.
Yuji Hirayama, Cobra Crack and back to his roots
29/09/2009 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama, Cobra Crack and back to his roots
Interview with Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama, who on 15/09/2009 made the sixth ascent of Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada.
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
06/08/2009 - Climbing
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
Last June Florian Riegler, climbing with Rebecca Finch, climbed "Via della cattedrale" (max 8a+, 21 pitches) on the South Face of the Marmolada in 12 hours. This is probably the first repeat after the first free ascent at the hands of Pietro dal Prà five years ago. But above all,...
Pale di San Martino routes re-equipped
03/08/2009 - Alpinism
Pale di San Martino routes re-equipped
At the start of July the belays of three classic Dolomites climbs were re-equipped during a mountain rescue training session. The routes in question are Frisch Corradini and Franceschini-Esposito on Pala del Rifugio and Simon-Wiessner-Kess on nearby Cima del Coro in the Pale di San Martino mountain group.
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
25/06/2009 - Climbing
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
On 19/06/2009 Maurizio Zanolla, alias Manolo, on-sighted Rock and Blues at the Olympic Wall on Kalymnos, Greece.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
23/01/2009 - Interviews
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
Interview with Ueli Steck from Switzerland after his 13 January speed climb of the Matterhorn in a record 1 hour 56 minutes via the Schmidt route.
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
16/01/2009 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
Last weekend Gabriele Moroni visited the historic Lumignano Classica in N. Italy and returned home with a climbing sweep-stake: flash ascents of Boomerang 8a+ and Atomic Café 8a, and a fantastic 2nd go ascent of Mare Allucinante 8b+.
Riegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco
31/12/2008 - Climbing
Riegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco
In September 2008 Martin and Florian Riegler made the first ascent of "Pandora" (8 pitches, max 8b) on the Mandrea wall at Arco, Italy. In October the two South Tyroleans redpointed all pitches individually, but the route still awaits its first free ascent.
Take the long way home new route on Baffin Island, Canada
27/06/2008 - Alpinism
Take the long way home new route on Baffin Island, Canada
A German expedition including Robert Japser and Stefan Glowacz has carried out the first ascent of "Take the long way home" (700m, 21 pitches, A4 10-) on Baffin Island, Canada.
Madagascar multi-pitch on Tsaranoro Be
12/11/2007 - Climbing
Madagascar multi-pitch on Tsaranoro Be
Toni Lamprecht, Felix Frieder, Sandra Wielebnowski and Benno Wagner have established the multi-pitch Manara-Potsiny (8a) on Tsaranoro Be, Madagascar.
Kammerlander and Unterkircher summit Jasemba (7350m) Nepal
24/05/2007 - Alpinism
Kammerlander and Unterkircher summit Jasemba (7350m) Nepal
At 15.00 on 22/05 Hans Kammerlander and Karl Unterkircher made the first ascent of the south Face of Jasemba (7350m, Nepal).