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Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta Pedranzini, Laetitia Roux in 4:43'31".
Melloblocco #6 and the treasure map
11/05/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco #6 and the treasure map
The sixth Melloblocco 2009, the world's most important bouldering meeting, broke all records from 07 - 10 May 2009. At least 2500-3000 climbers gathered in Val Masino and Val di Mello and more than 6000 people visited the valley for this happening which embodies the joy of bouldering.
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Mello's Moon, new icefall in Val di Mello
28/01/2009 - Alpinism
Mello's Moon, new icefall in Val di Mello
On 16/01/2009 Fabio Salini and Manuel Panizza carried out the first ascent of Mello's Moon (180m, III-5+), a rare ice formation in Val di Mello, Val Masino.
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
16/01/2009 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
Last weekend Gabriele Moroni visited the historic Lumignano Classica in N. Italy and returned home with a climbing sweep-stake: flash ascents of Boomerang 8a+ and Atomic Café 8a, and a fantastic 2nd go ascent of Mare Allucinante 8b+.
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
07/12/2008 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
On 2 December the Italians Matteo Bernasconi and Fabio Salini carried out a fast ascent of the Via dei Ragni on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia. This route was also climbed the previous day by Rolando Garibotti and Co.
Alexander Huber interview
30/10/2008 - Interviews
Alexander Huber interview
Interview with German climber Alexander Huber, one of the world's most important sport climbers and mountaineers.
Kevin Jorgeson climbs Parthian Shot E9 6c ground up
29/10/2008 - Climbing
Kevin Jorgeson climbs Parthian Shot E9 6c ground up
American climber Kevin Jorgeson has made the first ever ground up ascent of an E9 gritstone climb, Parthian Shot E9 6c, Burbage, England.
Taghia new route by Florit & Co.
24/10/2008 - Alpinism
Taghia new route by Florit & Co.
From 21 September to 9 October an Italian team led by of Mauro Florit visited Morocco's Taghia, where they carried out the first ascent of "Mai molar berbère" on the SE Face of Tagoujimt n'Tsouiannt (TD+, 500 metri, max 6+).
Rock climbing at Yangshuo, China
13/10/2008 - Climbing
Rock climbing at Yangshuo, China
With Moon Hill, The White Mountain and 30 other crags, Yangshuo is one of the most important and interesting areas for rock climbing in China.
Take the long way home new route on Baffin Island, Canada
27/06/2008 - Alpinism
Take the long way home new route on Baffin Island, Canada
A German expedition including Robert Japser and Stefan Glowacz has carried out the first ascent of "Take the long way home" (700m, 21 pitches, A4 10-) on Baffin Island, Canada.
Barbara Zangerl climbs Pura Vida at Magic Wood
26/05/2008 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Pura Vida at Magic Wood
At the start of May Barbara Zangerl sent Pura Vida, the boulder problem located in Switzerland's Magic Wood graded Fb8a+/8b.
Barbara Zangerl climbs Pura Vida at Magic Wood
26/05/2008 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Pura Vida at Magic Wood
At the start of May Barbara Zangerl sent Pura Vida, the boulder problem located in Switzerland's Magic Wood graded Fb8a+/8b.

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