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Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
02/08/2010 - Events
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
4 evenings and 4 great mountaineering stories as told by Valery Babanov, Hans Kammerlander, Silvio Mondinelli and Stevie Haston. The evenings will be introduced by Vinicio Stefanello, editor of PlanetMountain.com.
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
19/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
Puigblanque (ESP) and Kim (KOR) won the 25th Rock Master Lead in Arco. Lachat (SUI) and Stöhr (AUT) were victorious in the Bouldering competition, while the Speed gold medal went to Hroza (CZE) and He (CHN) and Team Spedwas won by China. The Lead Duel was won by Ondra (CZE)...
Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
21/04/2010 - Alpinism
Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the North Face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
Silvio Reffo repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
18/03/2010 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
On 07/03/2009 Silvio Reffo from Vicenza carried out a rare repeat of Drumtime, the super route at Fonzaso.
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
01/12/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.
Tomaz Humar
19/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar
The charismatic Slovenian climber who became one of the world's leading mountaineers, remembered by British journalist Ed Douglas.
Cerro Torre expedition for David Lama and Daniel Steuerer
12/11/2009 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre expedition for David Lama and Daniel Steuerer
Interview with David Lama prior to his expedition to Cerro Torre, Patagonia together with Daniel Steuerer. The two Austrians have an important objective: to attempt the first free ascent of the famous Compressor Route.
Rock Climbing Marathon – San Vito lo Capo, Sicily
14/10/2009 - Climbing
Rock Climbing Marathon – San Vito lo Capo, Sicily
The first international climbing meeting at San Vito lo Capo in Sicily took place from 9 - 11 October
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta Pedranzini, Laetitia Roux in 4:43'31".
Melloblocco #6 and the treasure map
11/05/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco #6 and the treasure map
The sixth Melloblocco 2009, the world's most important bouldering meeting, broke all records from 07 - 10 May 2009. At least 2500-3000 climbers gathered in Val Masino and Val di Mello and more than 6000 people visited the valley for this happening which embodies the joy of bouldering.
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.

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