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World Climbing Championship 2011 at Arco
02/03/2009 - Competitions
World Climbing Championship 2011 at Arco
On 28 February the Plenary Assembly of the IFSC - International Federation of Sport Climbing elected Arco (Trentino, Italy) as the seat of the World Championship 2011. The town in the Garda Trentino region beat the other two candidates, Paris and Moscow.
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
02/03/2009 - Climbing
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
Tyler Landman from England has made a series of hard repeats in Fontainebleau, France, including the second ascent of Satan i Helvete assis, the FB8C.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
17/02/2009 - Climbing
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
James Pearson has made a fast first repeat of the gritstone testpiece Gerty Berwick at Ilkley Quarry, England.
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
13/02/2009 - Alpinism
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
In January Kurt Astner and Emanuele Ciulli made the first ascent of Leben ist jetzt (200m, IV/M7+/ice 80/90°), a modern 5 pitch mixed route in Val di Tures (Riva di Tures, Dolomites).
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Free South Africa, first free route up the Central Tower of Paine for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
10/02/2009 - Climbing
Free South Africa, first free route up the Central Tower of Paine for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
After 11 days on the wall Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva amd Ben Ditto have carried out the first free ascent of the South African route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
ISPO Munich 2009. What crisis?
10/02/2009 - Events
ISPO Munich 2009. What crisis?
Last Wednesday the ISPO Winter 2009, the largest outdoor trade show in the world, drew to a successful end for both exhibitors and visitors. In the following article we attempt to analyse the current state of new products and the "anti-crisis" trend.
Ice World Cup 2009 won by Bendler and Tolokonina
09/02/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009 won by Bendler and Tolokonina
Last weekend Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia won the third and final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2009 Lead and in doing so they also won the overall Trophy 2009. Maria Tolokonina won the Speed event, together with teammate Pavel Gulyaev.
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
06/02/2009 - Alpinism
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
Hervé Barmasse, Giovanni Ongaro and Daniele Bernasconi have completed the traverse of the Hielo Continetal Sud and safely reached the Falcon Ford. Their idea of climbing the North Pillar of Cerro Riso Patron faltered as the mountain proved inaccessible, so much so that reaching the Fjord proved an undertaking in...
Antarctic, new routes for Huber, Siegrist and Richl
04/02/2009 - Alpinism
Antarctic, new routes for Huber, Siegrist and Richl
Interview with Alexander Huber who together with his brother Thomas, Stephan Siegrist and Max Riechl carried out three first ascents on Holtanna and Ulvetanna, two relatively unknown, remote and beautiful mountains in the Antarctic.
Alex Honnold climbing interview
27/01/2009 - Interviews
Alex Honnold climbing interview
Interview with Alex Honnold, the American climber who burst into international limelight with his solos in America and hard extremes on Britain's gritstone.
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
23/01/2009 - Interviews
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
Interview with Ueli Steck from Switzerland after his 13 January speed climb of the Matterhorn in a record 1 hour 56 minutes via the Schmidt route.
Gianluca Daniele frees Grandi Gesti at the Grotta dell’Areonauta, Italy
21/01/2009 - Climbing
Gianluca Daniele frees Grandi Gesti at the Grotta dell’Areonauta, Italy
On 11 January Gainluca Daniele made the first ascent of "Grandi Gesti", proposing 9a for this long route which climbs through the massive roof at the Grotta dell'Areonauta and combines a series of exiting lines.

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