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Stefano Ghisolfi and Pietro Biagini climb hard at Margalef and Varazze
14/01/2017 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi and Pietro Biagini climb hard at Margalef and Varazze
Sport climbing: at Margalef in Spain Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated 'First Ley' 9a+, while at Varazze in Italy Pietro Biagini has climbed 'Alphacentauri sit', his first 8B boulder problem.
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc
05/01/2017 - Alpinism
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc
Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.
Malga Spora: another Brenta Dolomites climbing gem
29/12/2016 - Climbing
Malga Spora: another Brenta Dolomites climbing gem
Alessio Tait introduces the stunning crag Malga Spora at Croz of Giovan. Another little sport climbing gem in the Brenta Dolomites.
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and...
World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
09/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
The World Youth Championships are currently being held at Guangzhou in China. The Lead discipline was won by Ashima Shiraishi and Sam Avezou (Youth B), Janja Garnbret and Giorgio Bendazzoli (Youth A) and Margo Hayes and Simon Lorenzi (Juniors)
Christoph Hainz makes solo first ascent of Golden Pillar of Ortler
03/11/2016 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz makes solo first ascent of Golden Pillar of Ortler
On 29/08/2016 Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of 'Golden Pillar of Ortler‘ (max VI+ , 750m) up the SW pillar of Mt. Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Italy.
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
24/10/2016 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of Burden of Dreams, his project at Lappnor in Finland, for which he has now suggested 9A. Should the grade be confirmed, this would be the first boulder problem to breach this difficulty worldwide.
Jernej Kruder climbs Pontax, 8c DWS on Mallorca
14/10/2016 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder climbs Pontax, 8c DWS on Mallorca
Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made what is most likely to be the first repeat of Pontax, the 8c deep water solo climb first ascended by Chris Sharma in 2005 at Es pontas in Mallorca, Spain.
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
11/10/2016 - Events
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our...
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
28/09/2016 - Climbing
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
Slovenian climber Martina Cufar has redpointed her second 8c sports climb, 'Max power' at Bionnassay, France.
World Climbing Championships Paris 2016 final report
23/09/2016 - Competitions
World Climbing Championships Paris 2016 final report
The report about the IFSC World Championships that took place in Paris, France, last week. Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra hanno won the Lead title, while Petra Klingler and Tomoa Narasaki were crowned Bouldering World Champions.
Tor des Géants, the start of the legendary race
12/09/2016 - Competitions
Tor des Géants, the start of the legendary race
On Sunday 11 September 770 runners set off from Courmayeur for the 7th Tor des Geants, considered the most difficult mountain race in the world. This extraordinary challenge in the heart of the four giants of the Alps: 330km long and 24.000 meter elevation gain across Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
Funding appeal for Scott Adamson & Kyle Dempster missing on Ogre 2, Pakistan
31/08/2016 - Alpinism
Funding appeal for Scott Adamson & Kyle Dempster missing on Ogre 2, Pakistan
A support fund has been launched to help the American alpinists Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, currently missing on Ogre II, Pakistan.
Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret win 30th Rock Master Trophy
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret win 30th Rock Master Trophy
Adam Ondra (Cze) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) win the 30th Rock Master Trophy at Arco via the Duel competition formula. Austria's Jakob Schubert and Max Rudigier place second and third respectively, while in the women's event Katharina Posch (Aut) placed second, ahead of Anak Verhoeven (Bel), third.

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