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Adam Ondra, L'Avaro 8c+ on-sight
14/07/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, L'Avaro 8c+ on-sight
Adam Ondra has achieved the first 8c+on-sight on Italian soil by sending L'Avaro at the Tetto di Sarre (Aosta).
Chamonix: Schubert, Ciavaldini, Eiter, Markovic, Kim
14/07/2011 - Competitions
Chamonix: Schubert, Ciavaldini, Eiter, Markovic, Kim
The first stage of the Lead World Cup 2011 was won by Jakob Schubert. Four women shared victory: Caroline Ciavaldini, Angela Eiter, Mina Markovic and Jain Kim.
Twll Mawr: new route and The Quarryman
08/07/2011 - Climbing
Twll Mawr: new route and The Quarryman
Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuiness add Supermassive Black Hole (F7a, 75m) to Twll Mawr in the Llanberis slate quarries in Wales. Video of James MacHaffie on The Quarryman
Il mio criceto, new route on Tofana di Rozes
07/07/2011 - Climbing
Il mio criceto, new route on Tofana di Rozes
The Slovenians Dejan Koren and Sranka Vidmar have stablished Il mio criceto (400m, 7b max, 7a obl.) up the Primo Spigolo on Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites.
Sonnie Trotter frees The Edge of Pan at Squamish, Canada
06/07/2011 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees The Edge of Pan at Squamish, Canada
A fortnight ago Canadian climber Sonnie Trotter freed The Edge of Pan on the Chief at Squamish, Canada.
Sport climbing shortlisted for the 2020 Olympic Games
05/07/2011 - Competitions
Sport climbing shortlisted for the 2020 Olympic Games
The IOC Executive Board announced yesterday that sport climbing has been shortlisted for the 2020 Olympic Games along with seven other sports. This is a fundamental step towards the main goal set by the IFSC International Federation of Sport Climbing and all rock climbers. The news arrives ahead of one...
Fischhuber and Noguchi victorious in Sheffield. Fischhuber wins 5th Bouldering World Cup
04/07/2011 - Competitions
Fischhuber and Noguchi victorious in Sheffield. Fischhuber wins 5th Bouldering World Cup
Austrian Kilian Fischhuber has won the Sheffield stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2011 and in doing so he has won this 5th overall World Cup. The women's event was won by won by Akiyo Noguchi.
Matteo Della Bordella establishes a new route in Val Bavona, Switzerland
04/07/2011 - Climbing
Matteo Della Bordella establishes a new route in Val Bavona, Switzerland
Matteo Della Bordella has freed the route 'll mito della Caverna' (8a max, 7c oblig, 300m) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. This route was opened with Luca Auguadri after starting off with Nicola Balestra.
Giuliano Cameroni, bouldering galore
01/07/2011 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni, bouldering galore
14-year-old Swiss boulderer Giuliano Cameroni and his spring ascents in Chironico, Cresciano, Magic wood and Gottardo.
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
01/07/2011 - Book-press
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
No Way Down: Life and Death on K2 by Graham Bowley has now been published in Italy by Mondadori. The book retraces the 2008 tragedy on K2 which cost the lives of 11 alpinists and only Italian mountaineer Marco Confortola survived.
Cimaï climbing ban lifted
01/07/2011 - Climbing
Cimaï climbing ban lifted
The climbing ban at Cimai, France, has been lifted.
Bouldering World Cup 2011: video report Barcelona
30/06/2011 - Competitions
Bouldering World Cup 2011: video report Barcelona
The video report by Udo Neumann of the 7th stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2011 in Barcelona, won by Akiyo Noguchi and Guillaume Glairon Mondet.
Russian Latok III success
28/06/2011 - Alpinism
Russian Latok III success
On 25/06/2011 a Russian expedition comprised of Alexander Odintsov, Alexey Lonchinskiy, Ivan Dozhdev and Eugeniy Dmitrienko summited Latok III (6949m) in Pakistan's Karakoram via the hitherto unclimbed West Face.
Adam Ondra, video of Chilam Balam and La Planta de Shiva
28/06/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, video of Chilam Balam and La Planta de Shiva
The video of Adam Ondra during the first repeat of Chilam Balam 9b and the first free ascent of La Planta de Shiva 9b at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain.
La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
28/06/2011 - Climbing
La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
On 5-6 April 2011 the Italians Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori established La banda del buco (175m, 7a+/7b max, 6c+ obbl.) a new route up the North Face of Antro della Perciata on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
Markus Bock adds new Frankenjura testpiece
24/06/2011 - Climbing
Markus Bock adds new Frankenjura testpiece
German sports climber Markus Bock has established The Elder Statesman 9a/9a+ in the Frankenjura.