5092 News found

Alessio Miori reports about the first ascent of Happy Ending, a new ice climb in Val Trementina (Paganella, Italy), first ascended on on 22-23/12/2016 together with the Luca Caldini, Giordano Faletti, Mattia Piffer and Stefano Vulcan.

The first stage of the ISMF Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2017 took place at Font Blanca in Andorra last weekend. Saturday’s Individual race was won by France’s Laetitia Roux and Germany’s Anton Palzer, while Sunday’s Vertical race was won by Sweden’s Emelie Forsberg and Switzerland’s Marti Werner.

The video of Stefano Ghisolfi and his most recent attempt at one of the hardest sport climbs in the world, First Round First Minute, Chris Sharma’s 9b at Margalef, Spain.

The video by Neil Hart of James Pearson climbing The Quarryman in the Llanberis slate quarries in North Wales.

Bouldering video: Isabelle Faus climbing The Wheel of Chaos 8B+ at Rocky Mountain National Park, USA.

Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).

South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.

On 04/01/2017 Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós made what is likely to be the first ascent of La Pissa (WI6, M9?, 105m), the obvious icefall at Termine di Cadore, Dolomites.

Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the North Face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.

Sport climbing: at Margalef in Spain Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated 'First Ley' 9a+, while at Varazze in Italy Pietro Biagini has climbed 'Alphacentauri sit', his first 8B boulder problem.

Last weekend the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Beijing, China; Russians Nikolai Kuzovlev and Maria Tolokonina won the Lead event, wile the Speed event was won by their teammates Radomir Proshchenko and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

Alpinism: Luca Godenzi reports about a rare winter ascent of the famous Cassin route on the NE Face of Badile, carried out from 30 to 31 December 2016 with Carlo Micheli.

Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).

From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...

Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.

Alessandro Lamberti (52) reports about his recent repeat of the 8c sports climb Egger at Spiaggia Della Molpa at Palinuro, Italy.