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UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
07/11/2015 - Alpinism
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
The report by Walter Polidori, leader of the Italian 1 to 1 Challenge, the climbing expedition to Khane Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Spiluck - Spelonca, the new climbing area at Brixen
06/11/2015 - Climbing
Spiluck - Spelonca, the new climbing area at Brixen
The series 'Crags for each season' published together with Vertical-Life.info continues. The seventh crag is the new sport climbing and bouldering area Spiluck - Spelonca close to Vahrn / Brixen in Italy's South Tyrol.
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
27/10/2015 - Climbing
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
Some quick thoughts and an "outburst" by Nicola Tondini - Italian mountain guide and director of the King Rock climbing wall in Verona - about sport climbing safety. Safe climbing must begin with big little steps (such as the correct use of belay devices) and requires help and awareness from...
Via ferrata del Vajont, the new via ferrata della Memoria above Longarone
09/10/2015 - Trekking
Via ferrata del Vajont, the new via ferrata della Memoria above Longarone
On 2 October 2015 at Longarone (Italy) the new Via ferrata della Memoria, also referred to as Via ferrata del Vajont, was inaugurated above the Vajont Gorge. Constructed by the Cortina Mountain Guides, this is a different way to remember the Vajont disaster that struck on 9 October 1963.
Nepal to introduce new Everest climbing restrictions
30/09/2015 - Alpinism
Nepal to introduce new Everest climbing restrictions
Nepal's government announced recently that is is considering steps aimed at easing overcrowding on Everest and making the highest mountain in the world safer for climbers.
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
Tor des Géants 2015 ends in celebration
21/09/2015 - Competitions
Tor des Géants 2015 ends in celebration
On Friday 18 September the Tor des Géants, cancelled ahed of schedule due to prohibitive weather conditions, celebrated its winners and all finishers in Courmayeur, Italy. France’s Patrick Bohard and Switzerland’s Denise Zimmermann won the grueling trail running race, ahead of Gianluca Galeati and Lisa Borzani (second) and Marina Plavan...
Tor des Géants cancelled
18/09/2015 - Competitions
Tor des Géants cancelled
A difficult decision was taken yesterday at the Tor des Géants: at 8.30 am the grueling mountain running competition was cancelled due to prohibitive weather conditions.
Tor des Géants 2015: an uncertain race to the end
16/09/2015 - Competitions
Tor des Géants 2015: an uncertain race to the end
Patrik Bohard and Denise Zimmermann currently lead the Tor des Geants 2015 in Valle d'Aosta, but anything can happen in the mountain race considered the most difficult in the world.
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
13/09/2015 - Climbing
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
One of the most famous moderate routes in Yosemite, Snake Dike on Half Dome, was lit up on 29 August 2015 to raise awareness for the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) and highlight safety issues concerning rebolting and regularly maintaining existing sport climbs.
Manolo: Weg durch den Fisch, climbing the Marmolada Fish route thirty years later
11/09/2015 - Climbing
Manolo: Weg durch den Fisch, climbing the Marmolada Fish route thirty years later
After 30 years Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla returns to climb Via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route on the Marmolada South Face in the Dolomites… and experience those (ghastly and unrepeatable) moments, those distant memories that resurface in an unexpected perspective.
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.
Hansjörg Auer free solos Mephisto on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites
09/09/2015 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer free solos Mephisto on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites
On 26 August 2015 the Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer made a free solo climb of Mephisto, the route established in 1979 by Reinhard Schiestl and Luggi Rieser on Sass de Crusc in the Dolomites
Pablo Criado Toca climbs the Geants mountains
21/08/2015 - Alpinism
Pablo Criado Toca climbs the Geants mountains
On 18 August Spanish mountaineer and trail runner Pablo Criado Toca made his dream come true by climbing, with the support of the local Mountain Guides, the four highest peaks in Italy's Valle d'Aosta: the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso and Mont Blanc.
Croux, rock climbing in Valgrisenche, Italy
19/08/2015 - Climbing
Croux, rock climbing in Valgrisenche, Italy
Luca Bastia introduces Croux, in Valgrisenche, the beautiful crag Valle d’Aosta, ideal for rock climbing on hot summer days.

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