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New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
06/09/2009 - Competitions
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
Angela Eiter from Austria has won her fifth Rock Master, Ramòn Julien Puigblanque his fourth. With these victories the two equal the records set by legendary climbers Lynn Hill and Francois Legrand.
Oh Eun-Sun summits Gasherbrum I, her 13th 8000er
04/08/2009 - Alpinism
Oh Eun-Sun summits Gasherbrum I, her 13th 8000er
Yesterday the South Korean mountaineer Oh Eun-Sun summited Gasherbrum I (8068m), her 13th 8000m peak.
Sci Club 18, new via ferrata in the Dolomites
23/07/2009 - Trekking
Sci Club 18, new via ferrata in the Dolomites
A new via ferrata called "Sci Club 18" has been created on Monte Faloria in Cortina, Dolomites.
RED BULL X-ALPS 2009 - final countdown
13/07/2009 - Competitions
RED BULL X-ALPS 2009 - final countdown
The 4th edition of the Red Bull X-Alps, the most demanding and exciting paragliding and running adventure race in the world, starts on 19 July.
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
02/07/2009 - Climbing
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.
Productive bouldering season for Andrea Pavan
29/06/2009 - Climbing
Productive bouldering season for Andrea Pavan
Andrea Pavan has had a good bouldering season in Northern Italy, with a series of hard repeats and first ascents close to Val di Mello, Valmasino.
Alexander Huber, Om and Adam Ondra
19/06/2009 - Climbing
Alexander Huber, Om and Adam Ondra
On 14/06/2009 Adam Ondra carried out the first repeat of Om 9a, the route first ascended in 1992 by Alexander Huber at Endstal in Germany.
Top sport climbing: searching for the lost limit
04/06/2009 - Climbing
Top sport climbing: searching for the lost limit
The latest news from the crags, or rather, when 9a isn't that difficult anymore and 8c approaches a rest... Dani Andrada, Markus Bock, Edu Marin, Adam Ondra, Gérôme Pouvreau, Chris Sharma, Maja Vidmar but also Dino Lagni and Luca Zardini.
Kangchenjunga, summits and abandoned attempts
19/05/2009 - Alpinism
Kangchenjunga, summits and abandoned attempts
On 18/05 at 2.30 pm Ferran Latorre from Spain reached the summit of Kangchenjunga. His companions Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, Asier Izguirre and Alex Chicon summited circa two hours later, at 4:45pm. The Italians Nives Meroi and Romano Benet have abandoned their attempt and returned to Base Camp.
Melloblocco ready steady go!
07/05/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco ready steady go!
The sixth Melloblocco starts today in the splendid Val di Mello, Val Masino, Italy. Thousands of climbers gather every year at this international bouldering meeting, which will come to an end on Sunday 10 May.
Adam Ondra raids Italy
21/04/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra raids Italy
Adam Ondra has returned to Italy and carried out the first ascent of "Vento nei Capelli" 8c+/9a at Cornalba and "La grande linea dei sogni"8c+/9a at Erto.
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
11/03/2009 - Alpinism
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
3rd Piolet d'or Asia to Japanese Kalanka team
10/11/2008 - Alpinism
3rd Piolet d'or Asia to Japanese Kalanka team
Japanese mountaineers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano have received the 3rd Piolet d'or Asia for their new route up the N Face of Kalanka (Garhwal, India, Himalaya).
On sight by Alastair Lee
03/11/2008 - Book-press
On sight by Alastair Lee
Filmmaker Alastair Lee gives exclusive insight into his latest climbing film, On sight, which examines the unpredictable, exciting and at times dangerous game of on-sighting trad routes, regardless of the grade of the climb.