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From Noia to Lapsus at Andonno in Italy. By Severino Scassa
04/11/2015 - Climbing
From Noia to Lapsus at Andonno in Italy. By Severino Scassa
Severino Seve Scassa, who climbed Italy’s first 8c+ in 1993 with Noia at Andonno, shares his views about Lapsus, the new route freed at the same crag by Stefano Ghisolfi graded 9b.
Mont Blanc: the land of toys
Mont Blanc: the land of toys
The trailer of the new short film "Mont Blanc: the land of toys" by Luca Rolli, starring Davide Capozzi, Andreas Fransson, Francesco Civra Dano, Giulia Monego and Julien Herry.
Cerro Adela Norte, difficult new mixed climb in Patagonia
03/11/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Adela Norte, difficult new mixed climb in Patagonia
Dani Ascaso, Lise Billon, Santiago Padros and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of Balas y Chocolate (900m, ED+), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Cerro Adela Norte in Patagonia.
Stefano Ghisolfi frees Lapsus at Andonno, Italy's first 9b sports climb
02/11/2015 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi frees Lapsus at Andonno, Italy's first 9b sports climb
Today at Andonno (NW Italy) Stefano Ghisolfi made the first ascent of Lapsus, the hardest sports climb in Italy and the first route in the country to be graded 9b.
Slovenians climb new routes in Kyrgyzstan
02/11/2015 - Climbing
Slovenians climb new routes in Kyrgyzstan
The trip report by Miha Hauptman who, together with Matjaž Cotar, Anže Jerše and Uroš Stanonik travelled to the Kyzyl Asker glacier (Western Kokshaal Too range) in Kyrgyzstan and climbed a flurry of probable new routes.
Jure's Challenge - the climb in memory of Jure Breceljnik in Slovenia
29/10/2015 - Alpinism
Jure's Challenge - the climb in memory of Jure Breceljnik in Slovenia
On Saturday 18 October 2015 a group of Icelandic and Slovenian climbers joined forces to climb six peaks in the Kamnik - Savinja Alps in memory of their Jure Breceljnik who died last July aged 41, in order to raise funds for Jure's baby daughter Ela Breceljnik and her mother...
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
27/10/2015 - Climbing
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
Some quick thoughts and an "outburst" by Nicola Tondini - Italian mountain guide and director of the King Rock climbing wall in Verona - about sport climbing safety. Safe climbing must begin with big little steps (such as the correct use of belay devices) and requires help and awareness from...
Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom
27/10/2015 - Alpinism
Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom
From 19 - 21 October 2015 Benjamin Brochard, Fred Degoulet and Jonathan Joly made the first ascent of Le Prestige des Écrins, a new 1000m mixed climb graded V, M6+, 6a on Pic Sans Nom (3913m) in France’s Ecrins massif.
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
26/10/2015 - Alpinism
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
On 25/09/2015 the Russian mountaineers Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dozhdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko completed the first ascent of Thulagi Chuli (7059m) a hitherto unclimbed peak in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new route up the West Face is called Happy Birthday, is 1850m high and is graded TD+, VI (5c),...
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
23/10/2015 - Alpinism
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
On 20/09/2015 Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner completed Dolomitspit (530m, VII, VI obl.) a new rock climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac (2672m), Val Gardena, Dolomites. The route was started initially in 2007 (with Karl Unterkircher) and was completed in 2015 after three days of effort that included...
Swiss trio climb three virgin summits in India's Kashmir Himalaya
21/10/2015 - Alpinism
Swiss trio climb three virgin summits in India's Kashmir Himalaya
In September and October 2015 Andreas Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of Bhala 5900m, Tupendeo 5700m and Maha Dev Phobrang 5900m and its famous Te tower, three hitherto unclimbed mountains in the Kashmir region of India's Himalaya.
Gabriele Moroni discovers Luogosanto and the most difficult boulder problem in Sardinia
20/10/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni discovers Luogosanto and the most difficult boulder problem in Sardinia
The report by Gabriele Moroni about his first climbing trip to Sardinia during which, at Bosco di Luogosanto in Gallura, he freed Patagarroso, the first 8B boulder problem on the Italian island.
Family San Martino, the new crag at Arco for families
20/10/2015 - Climbing
Family San Martino, the new crag at Arco for families
The new crag Family San Martino has been inaugurated at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Located close to the historic climbing area Massone, this small sheet of rock has been bolted specifically for families and young children and offers 17 routes from 3a to 6b.
Heroes on Pizzo Campana, new rock climb in Sicily
19/10/2015 - Climbing
Heroes on Pizzo Campana, new rock climb in Sicily
Italian climber Massimo Flaccavento reports about the first ascent, carried out together with Giuseppe Barbagallo and Giorgio Iurato, of Heroes (6b+, 186m), a new climb up the north face of Pizzo Campana (Rocca Busambra) close to Palermo, Sicily.
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
16/10/2015 - Climbing
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
German climber Alexander Huber has established two new rock climbs on the sea cliffs at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia, Il Capitano and Solemar. The peculiarities: a boat start, difficulties up to 8b+, trad protection.
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
14/10/2015 - Interviews
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck after climbing the 82 alpine four-thousanders, carried out in 62 days last summer from 11/06/2015 to 11/08/2015. The enchainment had previously been carried out in the same self-propelled style by Franco Nicolini and Diego Giovannini in 60 giorni in 2008. In 2007, Miha Valic...

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