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Iceland ice climbing expedition report
28/03/2007 - Alpinism
Iceland ice climbing expedition report
At the end of February Albert Leichtfried, Markus Bendler, Ines Papert and Audrey Gariepy travelled to Iceland to explore its potential in memory of their friend Harald Berger who died tragically in December 2006.
Fegefeuer IX on Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, by Stefan Glowacz, Kurt Albert & Co
02/03/2007 - Climbing
Fegefeuer IX on Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, by Stefan Glowacz, Kurt Albert & Co
At the end of December a German team led by Stefan Glowacz and Kurt Albert travelled to Venezuela where it established "Fegefeuer" IX, a new 700m route on Akopan Tepui, 2200m.
Dave MacLeod repeats Odi Social 8c+
20/02/2007 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod repeats Odi Social 8c+
Dave MacLeod has climbed his first 8c+, "L’odi Social" at Siurana, Spain to discover how this compares to cutting edge trad routes in Britain, such as his Rhapsody E11 7a.
Martina Cufar climbs Bitka s stalaktiti 8b+
15/12/2006 - Climbing
Martina Cufar climbs Bitka s stalaktiti 8b+
Martina Cufar from Slovenia has just repeated Bitka s stalaktiti (Battle with Stalactites) 8b+ in the massive cave at Ospo, Slovenia.
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
01/12/2006 - Alpinism
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
On 7 November Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first repeat of "Bocconi amari". This difficult mixed route was first ascended by Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26 October up the north face of the Triangolo nero on Monte Emilius, the prime mountain...
Leo Houlding interview
29/11/2006 - Interviews
Leo Houlding interview
Climber, mountaineer, but also keen snowboarder, surfer, skydiver, base jumper and nature lover, Leo Houlding is one of the most famous rock climbers and mountaineers in the world.
Short cut 7c+ new route on Tsaranoro wall, Madagascar
22/11/2006 - Climbing
Short cut 7c+ new route on Tsaranoro wall, Madagascar
At the end of September Florian Scheimpflug, Tomáš Sobotka, Ondra Benés and Harald Berger travelled to the Andringitra National Park in Madagascar where they made the first ascent of 'Short Cut' 7c+ 750m and a repeat of 'Bravo les Filles' 8b on the immense Tsaranoro wall.
Mario Prinoth repeats Solo per vecchi guerrieri
10/11/2006 - Climbing
Mario Prinoth repeats Solo per vecchi guerrieri
On 17 October Mario Prinoth carried out the first repeat of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri", the route first ascended by Manolo on the "El Colaz" rock face above Aune in the Feltre Dolomites.
Austrian Shipton Expedition: new routes and repeat of Women and Chalk
10/11/2006 - Alpinism
Austrian Shipton Expedition: new routes and repeat of Women and Chalk
In mid-July a five-man Austrian expedition comprised of Thomas Scheiber, Hansjörg Auer, Matthias Auer, Karl Dung and Ambros Sailer established two new routes in the Trango Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan, and repeated Woman and Chalk, first ascended in 2001 by Bubu Bole, Mario Cortese and Fabio Dandri.
First repeat of Omar ribelle on Granta Parei
02/11/2006 - Alpinism
First repeat of Omar ribelle on Granta Parei
On Tuesday 17 October Matteo Giglio and Germaine Roulet made the first repeat of "Omar ribelle" (250 m, ED+, 6c max, 6b+ obbl.), ascended in 1993 by Ezio Marlier and Salvatore Gagliano on the imposing limestone east face of Granta Parei (Val di Rhemes, valle d'Aosta).
Kedar Dome ascent for Parnell and Emmett
20/10/2006 - Alpinism
Kedar Dome ascent for Parnell and Emmett
British duo Tim Emmett and Ian Parnell climb new route on the SE Pillar of Kedar Dome (6830m) in the Gangtori region of the Indian Garwhal.
Slovenian TranGO Towers 2006
19/10/2006 - Alpinism
Slovenian TranGO Towers 2006
In late August a strong mixed Slovenian expedition travelled to Karakorum's Trango Towers where, despite unstable weather, they managed a remarkable number of repeats and first ascents
Fabrizio Droetto repeats Noia 8c+ at Andonno
12/10/2006 - Climbing
Fabrizio Droetto repeats Noia 8c+ at Andonno
On 10 October Fabrizio Droetto repeated Noia, the legendary 8c+ at Andonno, first ascended by Severino Scassa in 1993.
Luca Maspes & Co summer 2006 climbing exploration
04/10/2006 - Alpinism
Luca Maspes & Co summer 2006 climbing exploration
Luca Maspes & Co climb 11 new routes in Valtellina during summer 2006.
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov are Lost in translation on El Capitan
19/09/2006 - Climbing
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov are Lost in translation on El Capitan
On 30 August Nicolas Favresse made the first ascent of "Lost in translation" a 400m, 10-pitch free climb (5.12b/c) on the East Face of El Capitan together with 30-year-old Ivo Ninov from Bulgaria.
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
14/09/2006 - Climbing
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
During the first half of August 2006 the Italians Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia traveled to Turkey's Guvercinlik Valley in the Ala Daglar massif where they established four new routes.

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