2354 News found

18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.

On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.

Figerhorn, Langschneid and Hochgasser, three ski mountaineering itineraries in the Upper Tauern, East Tirol, Austria, introduced by Vittorio Messini, Mountain Guide Kals am Großglockner.

On 3 January Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander reached the summit of Mount Tyree (Antarctic). In doing so he has become the first person to climb the 7 second highest peaks on all seven continents.

The full-length film Shoshala is now online, dedicated to Giovanni Quirici who died on the Eiger on 12/08/2011.

Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.

Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).

In December 2011 the Norwegians Bjørn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied established a new route up the south face of Torre Egger 2850m, Patagonia.

Jens Holsten, Joel Kauffman, Mikey Schafer and established Rise of the Machines (VI 5.11 A2+ 900m, 750 new) up the Southwest Face, Aguja Poincenot, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.

This December Roger Schaeli and Simon Gietl established Let's get wild (600m, 7a, 90°), their new route up Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in Patagonia.

On 15 August 2011 Sergey and Andrey Nefedov completed the route Transerfing (1500m, 7b+), the first free climb up the North Face of Ak-Su (5217m) in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan.

The North Ridge of Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia was first climbed in 1981 by the Argentines Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni. Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo and Marcello Sanguineti repeated the route on 8 December 2011 and finished up the Amy route.

This summer a female trio of climbers comprised of Marina Kopteva, Anna Yasinskay and Galina Chibitok established "Parallel world" (2580m, VI+, A1/7b, 6B), a new route up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan.

From the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses to Patagonia. Corrado "Korra" Pesce's alpine journey, introduced by Rolando Garibotti in this meeting and interview - from one alpinist to another - in El Chalten

At the start of December Colin Haley and Jorge Ackerman completed a new route up Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia: El Caracol (500m, 5.9, A1+, M4). On 7 December Haley soloed Aguja Innominata via the Anglo-American route 400m 6c (6b+ A0).

Some climbs seem timeless due to their importance in the history of alpinism. One of these is certainly Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. The story by Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo, Marcello Sanguineti.