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Lofoten Storpillaren, new climb up Vagakallen by Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström
08/11/2014 - Climbing
Lofoten Storpillaren, new climb up Vagakallen by Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström
This summer Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström made the first ascent of The Corner kick (8a, 900m), a difficult and dangerous new variation to the climb Freya up the Storpillaren pillar on the North Face of Vågakallen, Lofoten islands, Norway.
Stefano Ghisolfi wins China stage of Lead World Cup with Mina Markovic
20/10/2014 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi wins China stage of Lead World Cup with Mina Markovic
On 19 October 2014 the sixth stage of the Lead World Cup 2014 was won at Wujiang in China by Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Slovenia's Mina Markovic. The Speed World Cup was won by Qixin Zhong and Mariia Krasavina.
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.
Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters
03/10/2014 - Alpinism
Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters
Maurizio Oviglia dedicates two new routes in Sardinia to his daughters, Kawaii, climbed with his daughter Elena on the Placche dell'Elefante in Sarrabus and Sweet Helen, climbed with Cecilia Marchi and dedicated to their daughter Elena, on the Figlia di Guglia at Cala Goloritzè, Baunei. A chance to talk about...
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September,...
Rock Master Lead, Semifinal results
30/08/2014 - Competitions
Rock Master Lead, Semifinal results
Jakob Schubert and Hélène Janicot place first in the onsight round. Schubert is joined in the Final by McColl, Amma, Skofic, Chernikov, Vettorata, Kryukov, Primozic and Timmermans. In the women's Janicot is joined by Röck, Markovic, Durif, Lavarda, Malamid, Becerra, Fakhritdinova and Claudia Ghisolfi. The final begins this evening at...
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
12/08/2014 - Alpinism
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
A great and intense and climbing trip to the Ak-su Valley (Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan) resulted in two new climbs and three repeats for the Italian alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo. Schiera provides the report.
Alexander Megos, Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, Ashima Shiraishi: no gravity days
13/07/2014 - Climbing
Alexander Megos, Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, Ashima Shiraishi: no gravity days
During the last few days Alexander Megos has repeated Biographie 9a+ at Ceuse, Adam Ondra has onsighted the 9a TCT at Gravere in Italy, and both Ashima Shiraishi and Shauna Coxsey repeat an 8B+ boulder problem.
Gimme Kraft and effective climbing training. Interview with the author Patrick Matros
03/07/2014 - Climbing
Gimme Kraft and effective climbing training. Interview with the author Patrick Matros
Interview with Patrick Matros, the trainer of Alexander Megos and author of the sport climbing training book Gimme Kraft.
Mai più colla 8c by Mauro Dell'Antonia at Rocca Pendice
19/06/2014 - Climbing
Mai più colla 8c by Mauro Dell'Antonia at Rocca Pendice
On 1 June, Mauro Dell'Antonia, the talented climber from Venice, Italy, climbed 'Mai più colla' at Punta della Croce, Rocca Pendice (Euganean Hills, Padua, Italy) for the first time without the hold that snapped off a few years ago. The proposed grade is 8c. This brief and intense series of...
Shauna Coxsey and Kilian Fischhuber win in Innsbruck
19/05/2014 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey and Kilian Fischhuber win in Innsbruck
The fourth stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2014 was won on Saturday night at Innsbruck, Austria, by Kilian Fischhuber and Shauna Coxsey. Michael Piccolruaz from Italy placed 6th.
For Ilio De Biasio
08/05/2014 - Alpinism
For Ilio De Biasio
Ilio De Biasio, one of the strongest climbers and mountaineers in the Dolomites, died aged 59 on 9 April 2014 during a ski mountaineering trip to Monte Pavione, Alpi Feltrine, Dolomites. The thoughts by Toni Zuech.
St Alban, dry tooling in Québec, Canada
17/04/2014 - Alpinism
St Alban, dry tooling in Québec, Canada
Jean-François Girard introduces the dry tooling crag St Alban, Québec, Canada.
Repairers of the fragile mountain environment
16/04/2014 - Environment
Repairers of the fragile mountain environment
The mountains are a harsh and at the same time fragile environment that needs to be treated with care. The wealth and stability of the mountain ecosystems are directly linked to the presence of man and the effects of a lack of maintenance in the mountains can be felt down...
Simone Pedeferri - behind the scenes of Melloblocco 2014
10/04/2014 - Interviews
Simone Pedeferri - behind the scenes of Melloblocco 2014
Interview with Simone Pedeferri, the man who leads the group of route setters who unearth and prepare the new problems and areas for the Melloblocco bouldering event in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy.
Bernardo Gimenez photography interview. Observing the mountains #2
10/04/2014 - Interviews
Bernardo Gimenez photography interview. Observing the mountains #2
Interview with Argentine photographer Bernardo Gimenez who has made the mountains, rock climbing and alpinism are his favourite photo set. By Marco Ferrario.

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