512 News found

30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before...

20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.

13/10/2020 - Climbing
Hubble climbed by Buster Martin at Raven Tor British climber Buster Martin has made the 10th ascent of Hubble, first ascended by Ben Moon at Raven Tor, England, in 1990.

12/10/2020 - Alpinism
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition In October 2019 an Austrian expedition comprised of Alexander Blümel, Much Mayr, Peter Mühlburger and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Baba Ji on Raldang Spire in the Baspa Valley, Kinnaur, India. Mühlburger reports.

06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient...

30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and...

17/09/2020 - Climbing
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco Italian climber Giacomo Meliffi has made a free solo ascent of Legoland, the famous crack climb in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.

14/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Paciencia repeated by Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer Switzerland’s Nils Favre and France’s Symon Welfringer have repeated Paciencia, the 900m 8a first ascended by Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck in 2003 up the North Face of the Eiger.

09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.

08/09/2020 - Climbing
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales Britain’s Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have both repeated an E9 trad route by climbing, respectively, The Final Round at Illam Rock in England and Chupacabra at Pembroke in Wales.

31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and...

28/07/2020 - Interviews
Laura Rogora: the second woman to climb 9b interview Interview with 19-year old Italian climber Laura Rogora after her repeat at Rodellar in Spain of Ali hulk sit extension total, thanks to which she became the second woman in the world to climb 9b.

23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of...

17/07/2020 - Climbing
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland Finnish rock climber Sami Koponen has made the second ascent of Kesäturkki, an 8c deep water solo at Punkaharju established in 2016 by Nalle Hukkataival.

13/07/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi takes The Bow, new 9a+ at Padaro, Arco 27-year-old climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of The Bow, a new 9a+ sport climb at the crag Padaro in Arco, Italy.

08/06/2020 - Interviews
Laura Rogora, the Pure Dreaming Plus 9a+ interview Interview with Laura Rogora who redpointed Pure Dreaming Plus at Massone close to Arco, Italy and became the first Italian woman to climb 9a+.
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