535 News found

30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...

On Uli Biaho Spire (5620m) in the Trango Towers region of Pakistan’s Karakorum the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Leonardo Gheza and Francesco Ratti have established Refrigerator Off-Width. The 510m new route up the mountain’s East Face was climbed alpine style and is graded 7a, A2, M5.

French climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first repeat of Iron Curtain at Flatanger in Norway. First ascended by Adam Ondra in 2013 without kneepads and graded 9b, with kneepads Bouin believes it warrants 9a+.

The fifth stage of the Boulder World Cup 2022 was won in Brixen / Bressanone, Italy, by Natalia Grossman of the USA ahead of Hannah Meul from Germany and 16-year-old Zhilu Luo from China.

Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has made the first repeat of Oltreconfine on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, established by Fabio Palma, Matteo Della Bordella and Domenico Soldarini in 2006 and 2007.

Interview with German alpinist David Göttler who at 9:45am on 21 May 2022 reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is the 43-year-old's sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.

Interview with Mathew Wright after the 23-year-old British rock climber made the fourth ascent of Lexicon, the E11 at Pavey Ark in the Lake District first ascended by Neil Gresham in summer 2021.

At Orgon in France Loïc Zehani has made the first ascent of Chikane, 30 intense moves now graded 9b. In December 2021 the 20-year-old established the hardest route at Buoux, Jusqu'au bout du mond 8c+/9a.

Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the North Ridge of Ulvetanna on Senja Island in Norway, climbed on 23 April 2022 with Mark Robson. This is possibly only the second ascent of the mountain.

On 14/04/2022 American alpinist Benjamin Lieber has made a solo ascent of Moose's Tooth in Alaska, via the classic Ham & Eggs Couloir

French climber Symon Welfringer has repeated Le Voyage at Annot. The hardest trad climb in France was first ascended by James Pearson in 2017.

Interview with Andrea Lanfri, the Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca recently arrived in Nepal with mountain guide Luca Montanari to attempt to climb Everest

From 21 to 23 February Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti and Hernán Rodriguez completed the skyline traverse of Grupo La Paz in the Cordillera Riesco in Patagonia, Chile. The trio climbed ‘Ayayema Wesqar’ alpine style from west to east past difficulties up to 5.11- and bivied two nights in between the...

Last summer American climber Alex Honnold made a free solo ascent of Gelbe Mauer / Muro Giallo on Cima Piccola at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, and most of the American Direct on Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif. His climbs without a rope were...

Interview with French mountaineer Charles Dubouloz who from 13 to 18 January 2022 made the first winter solo of Rolling Stones on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

On the 26th of January 2022 Line van den Berg from the Netherlands and Fay Manners from Great Britain have made the first female ascent of 'Phantom Direct', also referred to as 'Via in memoria di Gianni Comino', established in 1985 on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses in...