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Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
21/11/2012 - Alpinism
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Bombé bleu at Buoux, work in progress for Iker Pou
20/11/2012 - Climbing
Bombé bleu at Buoux, work in progress for Iker Pou
The difficult project Bombé bleu at the French crag Buoux has recently been attempted by Iker Pou.
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012 - Competitions
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012. The last stage of the Lead World Cup held last weekend in Kranj, Slovenia, was won by home-athlete Mina Markovic who has now won her second overall World Cup. In the men's event Austria's Jakob Schubert won the Kranj stage while second-placed Sachi Amma from Japan won his first...
Adieu Patrick Edlinger
17/11/2012 - Climbing
Adieu Patrick Edlinger
On Friday 16 November 2012 Patrick Edlinger died aged 52. The Frenchman was one of the early pioneers and absolute legends of sport climbing.
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
15/11/2012 - Climbing
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
Two videos by Cheyne Lempe from Yosemite concerning climbing safety: replacement of old bolts and the removal, off El Capitan, of the famous Death Block.
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...
Dawn Wall, the El Capitan project continues
13/11/2012 - Climbing
Dawn Wall, the El Capitan project continues
Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson Jonathan Siegrist are currently working the crux central pitches of the demanding Dawn Wall project on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Samuel Anthamatten and his love for freeride
08/11/2012 - Interviews
Samuel Anthamatten and his love for freeride
Interview by Ellade Ossola with Samuel Anthamatten, the Swiss freerider and alpinist, on the eve of the Evolution Vertical event organized by New Rock and scheduled to take place in Lugano, Switzerland on Friday 9 November.
First ascent of Kemailong in China's Shaluli Shan
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
First ascent of Kemailong in China's Shaluli Shan
In China's Shaluli Shan mountain range Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi have made the first ascent of Kemailong (5870m).
Frankenjura The Elder Statesman repeated twice
01/11/2012 - Climbing
Frankenjura The Elder Statesman repeated twice
Manuel Brunn and Daniel Jung have both repeated The Elder Statesman 9a in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Mayan Smith-Gobat, first female ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles
31/10/2012 - Climbing
Mayan Smith-Gobat, first female ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles
On 28/10/2012 New Zealand's Mayan Smith-Gobat succeeded in the first female ascent of Punks in the Gym (32/8b+) at Arapiles, Australia.
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
31/10/2012 - Alpinism
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.
Pirmin Bertle adds 8c+ to Jansegg in Swtizerland
29/10/2012 - Climbing
Pirmin Bertle adds 8c+ to Jansegg in Swtizerland
Pirmin Bertle has made the first ascent of Le lézard communiste (8c/8c+) at Jansegg, Gastlosen, Swtizerland
Amiata, new boulder problems in Tuscany by Michele Caminati
26/10/2012 - Climbing
Amiata, new boulder problems in Tuscany by Michele Caminati
A new sport climb and new boulder problems at Amiata in Italy's Tuscany: Michele Caminati has freed the highball Apollo 7B+ and made the first repeat of Alibracciapinne 8b.

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