1884 News found

Sarah Seeger climbs Steinbock 8c in the Frankenjura, Markus Bock creates his hardest to date, The Man That Follows Hell 9a+, while Adam Ondra makes swift work of two other testpieces in Germany's premier climbing area.

On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.

Interview with Martin and Florian Riegler after their climbing trips to the Bugaboos, Canada, where they carried out the first ascent of "The flying penguin" (300m, 5.12b)on the South Face of Pigeon Feathers.

In August 2009 a four man team from Australia and New Zealand established Naughty Daddies (630m 7b), a new route on Nafees Cap, the massive granite spire detached from K7 in the Charakusa Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.

Interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic who on 20/09/2009 made the first ascent of an old Alexander Huber project, Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall in Tyrol, Austria.

Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.

In August Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria made the first ascent of 'Power of Silence' 400m, 5.13a on the Middle Huey Spire in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada.

In August 2009 the Spanish brothers Eneko and Iker Pou carried out the first ascent of Orbayu 8c+/9a, 510m Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain which they describe as their most important route ever.

Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.

On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.

The 23rd Rock Master will take place on Saturday 5 and Sunday 6 September in Arco (Lake Garda, Trentino, Italy). The classic Arco Rock Legends will prelude the event on Friday 4 Septembr with the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award, the sport climbing Oscars. Information about...

In August Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski from Poland climbed a virgin peak and established two big new routes in remote area of Torsukattak fjord in southern Greenland.

Last June Florian Riegler, climbing with Rebecca Finch, climbed "Via della cattedrale" (max 8a+, 21 pitches) on the South Face of the Marmolada in 12 hours. This is probably the first repeat after the first free ascent at the hands of Pietro dal Prà five years ago. But above all,...

At the start of July the belays of three classic Dolomites climbs were re-equipped during a mountain rescue training session. The routes in question are Frisch Corradini and Franceschini-Esposito on Pala del Rifugio and Simon-Wiessner-Kess on nearby Cima del Coro in the Pale di San Martino mountain group.

Simone Pedeferri, Matteo Della Bordella, Lorenzo "Pala" Lanfranchi and Richard Felderer have just returned from a successful expedition to the relatively unexplored eastern Greenland where there carried out 5 first ascents. Simone Pedeferri talks about the expedition.

On 23/07/2009 Geremia Vergoni and Tiziano Buccella carried out the first ascent of their Opus Pocus, on the remote south face of Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada, Dolomites.