2144 News found

The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.

The XX Piolet d'Or will take place in Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix (France) from 21 - 24 March 2012. Here are the 6 nominations for the coveted golden ice axe, while Frenchman Robert Paragot will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.

With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.

Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama after the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, carried out on 20 and 21 January 2012 with Peter Ortner.

Russian mountaineer Vitaliy Gorelik has died during an attempt at the first winter ascent of the second highest mountain in the world.

On 29 January 2012 the Ice climbing World Champion Hee Yong Park (Korea) and Anna Gallyamova from Russia won the Marmot Icefight, the ice climbing competition at Corvara in Val Passiria, Dolomites.

In Andorra history repeated itself yesterday. The first stage of the Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012 was won once again by Kilian Jornet Burgada and Laetitia Roux.

Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...

On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.

News from Nanga Parbat: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to explore their hopes and the mountain itself. Yesterday they ventured to beyond 5800m to reach the base of the couloir which they will attempt to climb via their (new) route to the summit.

18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.

On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.

Figerhorn, Langschneid and Hochgasser, three ski mountaineering itineraries in the Upper Tauern, East Tirol, Austria, introduced by Vittorio Messini, Mountain Guide Kals am Großglockner.

On 3 January Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander reached the summit of Mount Tyree (Antarctic). In doing so he has become the first person to climb the 7 second highest peaks on all seven continents.

Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).

In December 2011 the Norwegians Bjørn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied established a new route up the south face of Torre Egger 2850m, Patagonia.