'Mona Lisa' added to Monte Gallo in Sicily

November 2024 — between sport climbing and bolting new sectors near Palermo — we returned to Monte Gallo for a project we’d eyed back in 2022, when we established Correnti Galvaniche.

This route came to life over two trips (November 2024 and April 2025), requiring four attempts — including a night on the wall for the redpoint. It follows the wall’s tallest section, weaving through its "weak points."

As always, the climbing is spectacular: a rapid succession of pockets, cracks, crimps and corners on near-flawless white-and-red rock from the bottom all the way to the top. The only exceptions being the first and last pitches, which, being slightly slabby, needed cleaning of vegetation.

The route starts a few meters right of Il mio scanto libero (Fabrice Calabrese, Maurizio Oviglia, Eugenio Pinotti, 2006) and the prominent ivy patch visible from the beach, just past the lighthouse. Mona Lisa is 360 meters high and breaches difficulties up to 7c+ max, with 7a+ obligatory.

Given the wall’s exposure to coastal weather, aim for days with southerly wind; avoid northerlies at all costs.

Bolted ground-up (S2/3) with the occasional use of cams (though freed clean), a set of Totem, especially on P5, might be found handy. All gear was provided by Graffiti Climbers (Camuno Association).