Mona Lisa - Monte Gallo
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Berni Rivadossi
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archivio Berni Rivadossi
Mona Lisa on Monte Gallo provides spectacular climbing past a series of pockets, cracks, crimps and corners on near-flawless white-and-red rock from the bottom all the way to the top. The only exceptions being the first and last pitches, which, being slightly slabby, needed cleaning of vegetation.
360 meters high, it breaches difficulties up to 7c+ max, with 7a+ obligatory. Bolted ground-up (S2/3) with the occasional use of cams (though freed clean), a set of Totem, especially on P5, might be found handy. All gear was provided by Graffiti Climbers (Camuno Association).
From Palermo, head to Mondello Beach and enter the Monte Gallo Nature Reserve (€5 toll if entering by car). Continue until you reach the lighthouse. If the road is fully accessible, park there; otherwise, stop earlier at a clearing on the right.
AccessContinue on foot past the lighthouse, then take a narrow trail along the cliffside until it ends. Near large boulders, ascend the scree slope aiming for the prominent ivy patch to reach the base of the wall. The route begins a few meters right of the ivy (Raumer bolt). The start is located just right of Il mio scanto libero (Fabrice Calabrese, Maurizio Oviglia & Eugenio Pinotti, 2006) and the large ivy visible from the beach, shortly after the lighthouse.
ItineraryP1: 6c+, 55m, 6 bolts
P2: 6c+, 35m, 5 bolts
P3: 6b+, 30m, 5 bolts
P4: 7b, 30m, 5 bolts
P5: 7b, 45m, 6 bolts
P6: 7c/c+, 50m, 7 bolts
P7: 6b, 55m, 5 bolts
P8: 6c, 40m, 5 bolts
P9: 6b, 20m, 2 bolts
It is possibile to abseil down the route by clipping all the anchors, but it's extremely exposed and tedious. The recommended descent is to hike down and arrange a pickup at the Bauso Rosso crag parking lot—about a 1-hour walk.
GearNormal rack for multpitch sport climbs. Take a rack of 10 quickdraws, 60m ropes; a small rack of Totems may be found useful but is not mandatory. All gear provided by Graffiti Climbers (Val Camonica).
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