The routes

1162
Routes in archive
Symponie d'automne
Climbing routes
Symponie d'automne - Pointe de Sept Lacs
6a+ max
Symponie d’automne offers superb slab climbing above a deep blue lake. The first pitch is original: a traverse on a metal cable just above the water mark! The route then ascends easy angled slabs and the climb is never excessively...
Jeef
Climbing routes
Jeef - Punta U Corbu
7a+ max
Significantly harder than  Dos de l’éléphant, Jeef is a masterpiece in terms of beauty and the demanding nature of its climbing - photos of the route have been published in magazines worldwide. 6b is obligatory and potential repeaters should master...
Le dos de l'elephant
Climbing routes
Le dos de l'elephant - Punta U Corbu
6c max
Grandiose rock face and beautiful slab route, demanding and exposed despite being reequipped. Some sections climb 5c/6a ground 6m above the last bolt. The complicated approach and length of the route make this an outing which should not be underestimated.
JPQ
Climbing routes
JPQ - Punta di l’Accellu
7a max
This isn't the easiest route up the wall but definitely the most classic, tamed by the bolts placed by the first ascentionist – at times the gear is somewhat irrational. The climbing is varied up perfect rock. The original grades...
Democratia
Climbing routes
Democratia - Punta di U Diamante
6c max
Dèmocratia is a splendid granite route, reminiscent of many alpine outings. Demanding slabs alternate with a difficult central pitch up small crystal knobs. The bolting is excellent and never excessive, while the granite itself is also clean of vegetation. The...
Vinatzer
Climbing routes
Vinatzer - Third Sella Tower
V+
Classic route, one of the most popular in the Dolomites. It follows a line of thin cracks up the west face of the third Torre del Sella. The crux leads to a roof above the large ledge at half-height and...
Demetz
Climbing routes
Demetz - Second Sella Tower
V
One of the great classic and most recommended routes on the Sella. The first section climbs the west face and leads leftwards to the exposed NW arête to continue up this to the summit. The short corner crux leads onto...
Les Intouchables
Climbing routes
Les Intouchables - Trident du Tacul
ABO-, 7c+ max
Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...
Elixier d’Astaroth
Climbing routes
Elixier d’Astaroth - Grand Capucin
ED+, 7a+ max, A2
This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the...
Voyage selon Gulliver
Climbing routes
Voyage selon Gulliver - Grand Capucin
ED, 7a+ max
A true journey that winds its way up a sea of granite. Without a doubt the most popular and sought-after modern route on the Grand Capucin. The climbing is technical and athletic. Being good at placing natural pro is a...
Gervasutti
Climbing routes
Gervasutti - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD+, 6a+ max
Rudimentary climbing up extremely tiring corners, laybacks and jams…
Bettembourg - Thivierge
Climbing routes
Bettembourg - Thivierge - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD+, 6b max
Splendid route up fantastic red granite. Perhaps the best route of its kind on the satellite.
Salluard
Climbing routes
Salluard - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD-, 5+ max
Highly satisfying climbing that follows a logical line close to the arête.
Via Decima
Climbing routes
Via Decima - Pala delle Masenade
V+
Via Decima (also referred to as Colatoio nero, black streak) follows a beautiful grey corner and then continues up the long black steak, solid and full of holds. The climbing is fun, varied and often airy, but always offers good...
Spitagoras
Climbing routes
Spitagoras - Val Rienza
5+ (6a)
This new bolt route is sustained but never particularly difficult. These two characteristics, combined with its setting and excellent rock, ensure that Spitagoras will become very popular.
Via Cassin
Climbing routes
Via Cassin - Cima Piccolissima di Lavaredo
7-
The short overhanging yellow wall of the Cima Piccolissima is breached by the demanding Via Cassin. All loose holds on this stratified dolomite have been cleaned. The route faces SE and is therefore climbable before and after summer.


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