The routes

1157
Routes in archive
Vinatzer
Climbing routes
Vinatzer - Third Sella Tower
V+
Classic route, one of the most popular in the Dolomites. It follows a line of thin cracks up the west face of the third Torre del Sella. The crux leads to a roof above the large ledge at half-height and...
Demetz
Climbing routes
Demetz - Second Sella Tower
V
One of the great classic and most recommended routes on the Sella. The first section climbs the west face and leads leftwards to the exposed NW arête to continue up this to the summit. The short corner crux leads onto...
Les Intouchables
Climbing routes
Les Intouchables - Trident du Tacul
ABO-, 7c+ max
Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...
Elixier d’Astaroth
Climbing routes
Elixier d’Astaroth - Grand Capucin
ED+, 7a+ max, A2
This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the...
Voyage selon Gulliver
Climbing routes
Voyage selon Gulliver - Grand Capucin
ED, 7a+ max
A true journey that winds its way up a sea of granite. Without a doubt the most popular and sought-after modern route on the Grand Capucin. The climbing is technical and athletic. Being good at placing natural pro is a...
Gervasutti
Climbing routes
Gervasutti - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD+, 6a+ max
Rudimentary climbing up extremely tiring corners, laybacks and jams…
Bettembourg - Thivierge
Climbing routes
Bettembourg - Thivierge - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD+, 6b max
Splendid route up fantastic red granite. Perhaps the best route of its kind on the satellite.
Salluard
Climbing routes
Salluard - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD-, 5+ max
Highly satisfying climbing that follows a logical line close to the arête.
Via Decima
Climbing routes
Via Decima - Pala delle Masenade
V+
Via Decima (also referred to as Colatoio nero, black streak) follows a beautiful grey corner and then continues up the long black steak, solid and full of holds. The climbing is fun, varied and often airy, but always offers good...
Spitagoras
Climbing routes
Spitagoras - Val Rienza
5+ (6a)
This new bolt route is sustained but never particularly difficult. These two characteristics, combined with its setting and excellent rock, ensure that Spitagoras will become very popular.
Via Cassin
Climbing routes
Via Cassin - Cima Piccolissima di Lavaredo
7-
The short overhanging yellow wall of the Cima Piccolissima is breached by the demanding Via Cassin. All loose holds on this stratified dolomite have been cleaned. The route faces SE and is therefore climbable before and after summer.
Spigolo Giallo
Climbing routes
Spigolo Giallo - Cima Piccola di Lavaredo
VI+
Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Spigolo Giallo. Few routes have such a perfect line, and few routes get quite so crowded. It is best climbed out of season and preferably avoided at the weekends. The difficult sections...
Via Dülfer
Climbing routes
Via Dülfer - Cima Grande di Lavaredo
5+
The cold West Face hosts the via Dülfer, a direct and elegant line, somewhat less popular than the other routes. It is relatively short, considering that it is on the Cima Grande, and is solid UIAA 6 with some slightly...
Via Comici - Dimai
Climbing routes
Via Comici - Dimai - Cima Grande di Lavaredo
7
Via Comici Dimai is the classic example of rock climbing in the Dolomites. Although difficult if climbed without using aid, its popularity is justified by its beauty and excellent rock. English topo in pdf download.
Hasse Brandler
Climbing routes
Hasse Brandler - Cima Grande di Lavaredo
7a+
An important old aid-route that takes a direct line up the North Face of the Cima Grande. Regardless of the style of ascent, the route, due to its 18 pitches, is very tiring and thus requires a certain level of...
Oasi
Climbing routes
Oasi - Col Becchei
5+/6a
Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches...


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