The routes

1181
Routes in archive
Malsiner Moroder
Climbing routes
Malsiner Moroder - Fourth Sella Tower
V/VI
This classic route is not particularly popular, but unjustifiably so. It takes a central line up the solid yellow grey slabs and the middle pitches are very beautiful indeed. Well worth repeating
Ligne Blanche
Climbing routes
Ligne Blanche - Chandelle du Tacul
ED, 7a+ max
A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.
Empire State Building
Climbing routes
Empire State Building - Clocher du Tacul
ED+, 7c max
An outstanding and spectacular route, more technical than at first appearance. The final pitches up the spur are truly genial! The crack pitch is not easy for those not used to crack climbing will find the crack pitch extremely difficult,...
Le Fou de l’Aiguille
Climbing routes
Le Fou de l’Aiguille - Aiguille du Midi
ABO-, 7b max
A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...
Swiss Route
Climbing routes
Swiss Route - Grand Capucin
ED-, 7b max.
The Swiss Route is historic line that leads to the summit of Grand Capucin. If combind with 'O sole mio' by bearing left beneath the obvious roof, it transforms into the easiest outing on the wall. There are many in-situ...
Diretta Grande Muro
Climbing routes
Diretta Grande Muro - Heiligkreuzkofel
VII
A nice route up good quality rock, more sustained and with less in-situ gear than nearby Grande Muro.
Mittelpfeiler
Climbing routes
Mittelpfeiler - Heiligkreuzkofel
8 (7 Mariacher variation)
Mittelpfeiler is a pleasant outing up solid rock, especially in the upper section. With in-situ gear throughout the entire route, the Messner was long considered one of the hardest routes in the Dolomites. Heinz Mariacher repeated the route adding an...
Diedro Mayerl
Climbing routes
Diedro Mayerl - Heiligkreuzkofel
-7
Logical and extremely exposed line up the obvious corner to the left of the ”Grande Muro”. On the whole the route climbs up fairly solid rock, but in parts though this may be a bit friable.
Grande Muro
Climbing routes
Grande Muro - Heiligkreuzkofel
7-
Great route up solid rock, especially in the upper section. In-situ gear can be found throughout the entire route.
La Grande Onda - Big Wave
Climbing routes
La Grande Onda - Big Wave - Torre Sprit
8a
In mid-September the Italian Rolando Larcher 2002 made the first ascent of the "La Grande Onda - Big Wave". Located deep in the Dolomites on the Torre Sprit, this 500m route clocks in at 8a. According to Larcher this...
Tempi modernissimi
Climbing routes
Tempi modernissimi - Sasso delle Undici
7c+
Like Tempi Moderni on the South Face of the Marmolada, Tempi Modernissimi on the Sasso delle Undici indicated where the new challenges lay, proving it possible to climb apparently impossible, blank faces. First climbed by the duo Heinz Mariacher and...
The Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce
Climbing routes
The Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce - Marmolada d'Ombretta
7+, A2 (7b+)
A legendary route, and quite rightly so; a true masterpiece of Dolomite climbing. Nowadays the “Pesce” has become a classic extreme, and even if the original protection has been modified, it nevertheless remains a route not to be underestimated.
Schwalbenschwanz
Climbing routes
Schwalbenschwanz - Marmolada d'Ombretta
6
The Schwalbenschwanz, or swallow’s tail, starts to the right of the Don Quixote, climbing up similar rough compact grey slabs. Like its neighbour it follows an intelligent and fun line of ascent, weaving its way up the line of least...
Don Quixote
Climbing routes
Don Quixote - Marmolada d'Ombretta
VI
Don Quixote is justifiably the classic line and, consequently, also the most repeated on the wall. The route climbs the characteristic rounded arête and pillar to the right of the routes Conforto - Bertoldi and Phillipp - Henger. It starts...
Vinatzer + exit Messner direct
Climbing routes
Vinatzer + exit Messner direct - Marmolada Punta Rocca
VI+
This masterpiece, first climbed by Vinatzer in 1936, is one of the most classic and popular outings on the wall, and nowadays the link up with the Direct Messner route in the upper section is definitely recommended. The first part...
Tempi moderni
Climbing routes
Tempi moderni - Punta Rocca
7+
Tempi Moderni, or Modern Times, follows the line of central slabs without respite to the summit of Punta Rocca. It is a class route, absolutely one of the most beautiful on the South Face, both for the climbing it offers...


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