The routes

Few words are needed to describe one of the most beautiful and feared routes in Val di Mello. For those who love friction climbing, the black widow is a highly prized rock climb. A true Vitali valley masterpiece.

Oceano Irrazionale was first route to introduce the grade VII in the Central Alps. Irrational Ocean is a fantastic line up long vertical cracks and a prodigious traverse right, la "Tromba", to reach the suspended pulpit. Certainly one of the...

Great route up good rock, established by  B. De Franceschi and F. Vanzetta in 1978 (pegs and pressure bolts). It was rebolted recently in a combined effort first by R. Bernard and G. Bonanno, then by Luigi Trippa & Co....

Interesting route put up by local mountain guide Renato Bernard and Petra Bernard in 2005. despite being entirely equipped with bolts, the route requires alpine experience due to the quality of the rock and the run-out gear.

Exciting climb up excellent rock. The second half is vertical and exposed and ascends yellowish-black pocketed rock and the final two pitches, in particular, are extremely beautiful.  After a second difficult pitch, the difficulties tend to be in the 6b...

Fantastic multi-pitch sport climb established by the Swiss climbers Urs Odermatt and Peter Keller in May 2010. Just like their nearby Wings for Life, Wild Country promises to become an instant classic...

Volo di Pegasus is a beautiful route which climbs perfect rock and is marked by the incredible rock formations and tufas. First ascended on-sight from the ground-up by visiting Austrians Albert Leichtfried & Reinhard Ranner, the route climbs difficulties up...

Luna Nascente can rightly be considered a true pearl of the Alps, an absolutely fantastic route in Val di Mello. A beautiful perfect series of cracks and flakes on fantastic rock which has few equals in the rest of Europe....

Vento d’estate is a nice and interesting modern route with an alpine feel which takes a series of slabs and corners on the righthandside of the West face of Monte Gallo to reach Pizzo della Sella.Although the route isn't difficult...

Fantastic climbing up pumpy, overhanging cracks on stupendous granite. Acrobatic descent, clip some friends during the abseils to keep close to the rock face.

Serious alpine-style multi-pitch on the south face of Jebel Misht. The route starts circa 70m left of Flying pegs and the routes cross at the large ledge. Flying pegs follows the large corner left, while Fata Morgana continues directly up...

La lingua pura is perhaps my finest multi-pitch route to date. The route quality is outstanding and alternates a series of tufas and compact corners to climb the impressive North Face of Monte Monaco high above San Vito lo Capo...

A truly classic outing, a step into climbing history and a masterpiece of route finding by Jacques "Pschitt" Perrier in the Escales sector. The route climbs diagonally rightwards and finishes up the ultra-smooth and exposed slabs next to Belevedere de...

Beautiful route up superb slabs, not polished in the slightest. The first pitch is fairly run-out at times and climbs up a series of small pockets and 'gouttes d'eau', this is then followed by an exposed 5+/6a second pitch traverse....

Elegant and beautiful route, exposed and with continuous difficulties.

Finest quality crack and slab climbing up the obvious crack system circa 15m to the left of the route Buhldurchschlag. Inglourious Basterds alternates fine cracks with nice face climbing and the steeply overhanging third pitch contains the crux, a...