Mina Markovič and Jernej Kruder win Janez Jeglič – Johan Memorial at Osp

After a 13‑year absence, the legendary Janez Jeglič – Johan Memorial was revived on 9 May 2026 in Osp, Slovenia. The unique competition, which honours the famous Slovenian mountaineer who perished on Nupste in 1997, consists of speed climbing the 100‑metre route Magična Goba (7c) on the impressive Osp wall – climbed top‑rope for maximum safety while preserving the thrill of racing against the clock.

The event was organised by the Society for Mountain Culture in collaboration with the Mountaineering Section of the Domžale Alpine Club, as part of the Weekends on the Edge series of active, tourist and social events promoted by the Institute for Youth, Culture and Tourism Koper.

In the women’s field Mina Markovič - the most successful Slovenian sport climber before Janja Garnbret, with 22 World Cup victories and multiple overall World Cup titles – took the win in 28 minutes and 58 seconds.

Markovič, the first Slovenian woman to have climbed a 9a, was competing in the Memorial for the first time: "The experience was unique! Having the chance to climb 100 metres of such high‑quality route in really good company, on top‑rope – just focusing on the climbing – was fantastic. The return of the Memorial (for me it’s the first time, because I was still competing back then) is a huge asset for the Karst Edge and Slovenian rock climbing – something that deserves to be expanded worldwide. I’m really happy that the Memorial is back and I hope we revive it internationally as well.”

In the men’s category, Jernej Kruder lived up to his reputation as one of Slovenia’s most versatile climbers. He blazed up the legendary Goba in 8 minutes and 1 second, finishing just 20 seconds shy of the record set by Klemna Bečan in 2009 (7:41). Kruder, a former overall World Cup winner and European champion in bouldering, has in recent years also left his mark both at the crag and on big walls – in 2024 he became the first Slovenian to free climb El Corazon (8a/5.13b) on El Capitan, and last year he made the first repeat of Crown Royale (9a) in Norway, hailed as one the hardest trad climb in the world.

After his victory, Kruder commented: "The Memorial is a great competition that we have missed in Osp for the last decade – especially climbing Goba. Because I had bad intentions for that route, I tried it many times, which is why I went so fast. I know it can go even faster, but with the sun directly on the wall, conditions were tough. I’m really looking forward to next year, because Johan and I will cross a milestone together – when he tragically stopped climbing in 1997, I started. I think that will be an important turning point for me and for Silvo Karo, who organises such a good event.”

Second place in the women’s category went to Lučka Franko from Škofja Loka, also a former top competitor. In the men’s race, Bor Savnik from Kranj finished second, while third was Matej Sova from Tržič – the only person to have participated in every single Memorial so far, and a three‑time winner (2006, 2010, 2011). Sova remarked: "After so many years, when we no longer train as much as we used to, the wall feels bigger and harder – but we still try. What matters most to me is that after so many years we see each other again, climb together, and spend time together.”

In the evening, the event moved to the Karst Edge visitor centre, where the awards ceremony was followed by a screening of the film Riders on the Storm, which won accolades at this year’s 20th Ljubljana Mountain Film Festival.

Silvo Karo, legendary alpinist and organiser of the Memorial, was delighted with the atmosphere. "The event succeeded perfectly in every respect: it encouraged this kind of climbing and connected generations – there is nearly 30 years’ difference between the oldest, Franci Jensterle, and Bor Savnik. The atmosphere under the wall was wonderful, in the true spirit of fair play. And the social part was great – we hadn’t seen some people since the last Memorial. We will definitely upgrade next year’s edition. Everyone promised to return, and we will make sure the organisation is at least as excellent as Johan’s mountaineering career. Next year marks 30 years since that career ended on the summit ridge of Nuptse.”