Osp, Slovenia
Silvo Karo archive

Janez Jeglič Memorial Competition returns to Osp, Slovenia

The steep walls of Osp in Slovenia will host the Janez Jeglič – Johan Memorial competition, in memory of the famous Slovenian mountaineer who perished on Nupste in 1997. Scheduled from 7- 9 May 2026, the event is accepting applications from international climbers

After being put on pause for more than a decade, the Janez Jeglič Memorial is set to return to the steep limestone walls of Osp and Mišja peč and Črni Kal in Slovenia. The competition - one of the oldest and most particular - was held annually between 1998 and 2013 in memory of Janez Jeglič, one of the most prominent alpinists of his generation, who perished tragically in 1997 on Nuptse.

The event is unique and rotates its marathon format at the karst crags close to the Italian border with, this year, a vertical sprint up one of the longest multipitch climbs in the area, Magična goba - Magic Mushroom. Located on the stunning Velika stena cliff, this magnificent, wildly overhanging 100-meter 7c is climbed toprope, ensuring safety while the sheer speed of the climbing provides an incredible spectacle for spectators. The competition features both men's and women's categories, and all finalists will receive prizes. The "record" currently stands at an impressive 7 minutes 41 seconds, set in 2009 by Klemen Bečan.

Over the years many of the best Slovenian - and international - climbers have taken part in the event. Some climbers who have competed in the past receive direct invitations, while the remaining spots are filled through a selection process. Those wishing to participate should submit their application by the end of April to: silvo.karo@gmail.com

Schedule
Thursday 7 May
Technical preparation of the route; training sessions available in the afternoon.
Friday 8 May
Training and qualification rounds to select the competitor quota.
Saturday 9 May
10:00 AM: Finals (10 men and 6 women).
7:00 PM: Winners ceremony, award presentation, and en evening featuring a screening of the film Jezdeci neviht / Riders on the Storm.

Hall of Fame
1998 Domžale (artificial wall) - Tomaž Valjavec and Natalija Gros
1999 Mišja peč - Jure Golob and Martina Čufar
2000 Mišja peč - Uroš Perko and Natalija Gros
2001 Mišja peč - Franci Jenstrle and Natalija Gros
2002 Osp - Luka Zazvonil and Martina Čufar
2003 Črni Kal - Franci Jenstrle and Tina Di Batista
2004 Osp - Franci Jenstrle and Betka Galičič
2005 Mišja peč - Franci Jenstrle and Metka Jug
2006 Mišja peč - Matej Sova and Maja Šuštar
2007 Osp - Magična goba - Franci Jenstrle and Lučka Franko
2008 Osp - Magična goba - Klemen Bečan and Martina Čufar
2009 Osp - Magična goba - Klemen Bečan
2010 Osp - Magična goba - Matej Sova and Lučka Franko
2011 Osp - Magična goba - Matej Sova and Martina Čufar
2012 Osp - Magična goba - Klemen Bečan and Maja Šuštar
2013
 Osp - Magična goba - Domen Škofic and Martina Čufar

Janez Jeglič – Johan
Born in 1961 in Tuhinj, Slovenia, Janez Jeglič was one of the most prominent alpinists of his generation. Known more simply as Johann, he left an indelible mark on the climbing world before his tragic death on Nuptse in 1997. Jeglič was renowned for his remarkable versatility, excelling in traditional climbing, sport climbing, ice climbing and high altitude mountaineering, and his ability to move seamlessly between disciplines set him apart as a truly complete alpinist. Throughout his career, Jeglič participated in numerous expeditions to North and South America, as well as the Himalayas, where his ascents consistently pushed the boundaries of the possible. Together with Franček Knez and Silvo Karo,he climbed many difficult routes in the Slovenian Alps, but the three are known above all for their climbs in Patagonia when there was still much wilderness to be explored. First ascents by the "Three Musketeers" as Jeglič, Knez, Karo and were dubbed, were carried out on Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Torre Egger and highly respected by Patagonian veterans. The year 1990 stands out as a particular milestone in Jeglič's career. During those twelve months, he climbed a new route on the west face of Bhagirathi III, reached the summit of Mount Everest and completed a sport climb graded X. More than two decades after his passing, Jeglič's achievements remain a benchmark for excellence in alpinism. His pioneering spirit, technical mastery, and unwavering determination continue to influence new generations of climbers worldwide.

Janez Jeglič – Johan Memorial
The memorial is organised by Društvo za gorsko kulturo (Mountain Culture Association), in cooperation with AO Domžale, as part of the "Vikendi na robu" (Weekends on the Edge) events, a series of active, touristic, and social events organised by the Institute for Youth, Culture and Tourism Koper.

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