The routes

A new route that came about almost by chance, from a sudden glance at the face immediately to our left as we approached the classic ice gullies on Monte Nero. Much to our delight the route developed, one pitch after...

First light saw us at the base of the gully, which at first glance looked excellent. Our only worry was… would we manage to breach the cave that towered overhead? No need to describe how happy we were when we...

Compared to the nearby Val Gardena, Vallunga is more suited to more adventurous ice climbers, those who love a pristine alpine ambient. Vallunga is a lonely valley, criss-crossed for a bit by a cross-country piste, marked by 600-700m high faces...

This route was first climbed by the pharmacist from Brunico M. Hruschka, together with E. Lunz and R. von Zieglauer back on 28 September 1933. 500m high, it’s classic Dolomite chimney climbing breaches difficulties up to classic grade V. Reinterpreted...

A difficult new mixed outing in Langental that follows a logical series of of cracks and corners up the Col Turont face.

New ice climbing called Dlacion de Frea, which in local Ladin 'Frea ice drip’. The route ascends an icy chimney that has not not formed during the last 30 - 40 years. The ice varies from being very thin to cauliflower...

The name of the route refers to the far harder and more famous Exocet, the spectacular ice climb up Aguja Standart, in Patagonia. The waterfall is high avalanche risk in the event of heavy snowfall. The icefall is at risk...

A very beautiful mixed outing, both complete and demanding: rock and mixed climbing leads to a small ledge on the left and then, around the corner, a beautiful corner rises sharply upwards. This is followed by another, with a thin...

Great route first climbed to the summit by Andrea Reboldi and Claudio Migliorini on 4/11/2013. The first attempt of this line probably goes back to the 1990s by Care' & C; considering the intense activity by local climbers there may well have...

Pleasant mixed climb up the sunny south face of Monte Nero. The route, which ends on the summit, is shorter than those on the north face, not too difficult but with some sections that are more demanding. 

In May and July 2014 Andrea Saviane, Enrico De Nard "Thunder" and I bolted a new drytooling / total dry crag close to the normal crag at Monte Dolada in the Belluno Prealps, located at 1500m above sea level and...

New dytooling and total dry crag designed by Enrico Bonino and bolted with the help of Hugues Bonnel (Odyssee Montagne) and Giancarlo Bazzocchi. Thanks also to Ilaria Sonatore, Marco Ghisio and Filippo Laurora.

This route rarely comes into condition and should be avoided at all costs after snowfall due to avalanche danger on the slopes that lead to the base of the climb.

A new mixed outing up the extreme left-hand side of the North Face of   Monte Nero (Presanella). Climbed in 5 hours, as the name suggests the route was climbed with trad gear only, including the belays, and offers exciting,...

An ephemeral couloir, never too extreme but not to be underestimated due to the difficulty in placing gear on some pitches. Comparable to the Rebuffat Terray route on the Pelerins in dry conditions... with a bit more climbing to do...!

A very demanding route which requires a good level of familiarity with drytooling and placing gear. It has the potential of becoming a classic route in its genre.