The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

343
Routes in archive
Chloë
Chloë
M6 WI 4 II
Extremely beautiful icefall, climbed without bolts or pegs. The dry tooling section can be protected well with friends and nuts. Once again the Cogne valley has provided amazing new excitement.
Sogni di gloria
Sogni di gloria - Punta Angelo
M4
Beautiful and fun route on a mountain which sees little traffic. The climbing is not particularly difficult and ideal for those who wish to enjoy a great day out in stunning scenery. The climb follows a logical line of weakness;...
La farfalla tigre
La farfalla tigre - Cima Bifora
WI4 M6
A new route that came about almost by chance, from a sudden glance at the face immediately to our left as we approached the classic ice gullies on Monte Nero. Much to our delight the route developed, one pitch after...
SuperPiter
SuperPiter - Monte Aga
AI 6+ M6
First light saw us at the base of the gully, which at first glance looked excellent. Our only worry was… would we manage to breach the cave that towered overhead? No need to describe how happy we were when we...
La Piera
La Piera - Dlacion de col dela Pieres
IV, WI 5
Compared to the nearby Val Gardena, Vallunga is more suited to more adventurous ice climbers, those who love a pristine alpine ambient. Vallunga is a lonely valley, criss-crossed for a bit by a cross-country piste, marked by 600-700m high faces...
Hruschka
Hruschka - Mur de Pisciadù
WI 5 M4 V-
This route was first climbed by the pharmacist from Brunico M. Hruschka, together with E. Lunz and R. von Zieglauer back on 28 September 1933. 500m high, it’s classic Dolomite chimney climbing breaches difficulties up to classic grade V. Reinterpreted...
Amore e ombra
Amore e ombra - Col Turont
M9, VIII, WI5
A difficult new mixed outing in Langental that follows a logical series of of cracks and corners up the Col Turont face.
Dlacion de Frea
Dlacion de Frea - Murfreit Frea
WI 6 / M6 (possibile easier finish)
New ice climbing called Dlacion de Frea, which in local Ladin 'Frea ice drip’. The route ascends an icy chimney that has not not formed during the last 30 - 40 years. The ice varies from being very thin to cauliflower...
Exo-Ciuc
Exo-Ciuc - Valgrisenche
WI5/II
The name of the route refers to the far harder and more famous Exocet, the spectacular ice climb up Aguja Standart, in Patagonia. The waterfall is high avalanche risk in the event of heavy snowfall. The icefall is at risk...
Wind of Change
Wind of Change - Monte Nero di Presanella
M6+WI5
A very beautiful mixed outing, both complete and demanding: rock and mixed climbing leads to a small ledge on the left and then, around the corner, a beautiful corner rises sharply upwards. This is followed by another, with a thin...
Rolling Stones
Rolling Stones - Monte Nero di Presanella
WI 4+/M6
Great route first climbed to the summit by Andrea Reboldi and Claudio Migliorini on 4/11/2013. The first attempt of this line probably goes back to the 1990s by Care' & C; considering the intense activity by local climbers there may well have...
Una via per te fatta in tre
Una via per te fatta in tre - Monte Nero di Presanella
WI4/M4
Pleasant mixed climb up the sunny south face of Monte Nero. The route, which ends on the summit, is shorter than those on the north face, not too difficult but with some sections that are more demanding. 
Stortoland
Stortoland - Monte Dolada
D5 - D7+
In May and July 2014 Andrea Saviane, Enrico De Nard "Thunder" and I bolted a new drytooling / total dry crag close to the normal crag at Monte Dolada in the Belluno Prealps, located at 1500m above sea level and...
Shampoo Dry
Shampoo Dry - Valle di Champorcher
M4 - M7
New dytooling and total dry crag designed by Enrico Bonino and bolted with the help of Hugues Bonnel (Odyssee Montagne) and Giancarlo Bazzocchi. Thanks also to Ilaria Sonatore, Marco Ghisio and Filippo Laurora.
Anitaice
Anitaice - Cima Denti della Vecchia
M5
This route rarely comes into condition and should be avoided at all costs after snowfall due to avalanche danger on the slopes that lead to the base of the climb.
Clean Climb
Clean Climb - Monte Nero di Presanella
IV/M4+
A new mixed outing up the extreme left-hand side of the North Face of   Monte Nero (Presanella). Climbed in 5 hours, as the name suggests the route was climbed with trad gear only, including the belays, and offers exciting,...


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