The routes

An ephemeral couloir, never too extreme but not to be underestimated due to the difficulty in placing gear on some pitches. Comparable to the Rebuffat Terray route on the Pelerins in dry conditions... with a bit more climbing to do...!

A very demanding route which requires a good level of familiarity with drytooling and placing gear. It has the potential of becoming a classic route in its genre.

Great route in an isolated setting with a true alpine feel to it, also thanks to the long approach. While the difficulties are never excessive, the final sections of pitches five and six require special care and attention and are...

A really beautiful route to the right of La Piovra that offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts. The first pitches that lead to the roof were climbed for the first time in 1992 by the brothers Cristoforo and...

The obvious line up the SE Face.

Fantastic ice climb up the north face of Ciampanil de Mufreit (Sella group) reached after having climbed the first three pitches of L Ciamin, put up by Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder.

Logical, obvious and by no means extreme line up the North Face of Monte Miletto.

Thanks to the large number of ice and mixed routes of all grades, all located close to one another, the Eisarena Umbaltal will soon develop into one of the top mixed and ice climbing areas in the Tirol

After some fun initial pitches, the route connects the snowy gully of Full Love... for dry and ice with the exit of the 1942 Livacic - Martinetti route, of which there is little news about "winter garb" repeats, apart from...

On 28/01/2014 Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Bendikt Purner made the first ascent of Zweite Geige (WI7/M7) in Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.

Superb alpine outing in a little known area of the Presolana. The route climbs the obvious recessed gully, past compact snow, hard to protect and mixed sections up corners and chimneys. Pro is not always easy to place. Pitches 5...

On 7 December 2013 Cristiano Iurisci, Massimo Zulli and Antonio Di Martino made the first ascent of Il Grande Salto (TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+) in the remote, inhospitable, isolated and wild Valle Inferno in Italy's Majella National Park. This is...

The summit of the Langkofel shoulder can be reached via one of the great Dolomites classics, namely by climbing the first section of Raggio di sole and combining this with the icefall Cascata dello Spallone. As explained by Massimo Meneghetti...

This, the most famous of the great Nevis ridges, is a magnificent expedition. It is technically easier than the North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge, but it should not be underrated. The main difficulties are concentrated high up, and the...

A justifiably popular route, often in condition and the benchmark grade V,5 from which all other steep snow-ice gully climbs are graded.

Great ice and mixed climb up the West Face of Sass Pordoi in the Dolomites, climbed over a two-day period after having fixed te first 150m of Via Fedele. On 3 December 2013 Corrado Pesce and Jeff Mercier climbed Via...