The routesClassic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

Seltene Erden - Wildgall 



80° M4+ V+
Great route in an isolated setting with a true alpine feel to it, also thanks to the long approach. While the difficulties are never excessive, the final sections of pitches five and six require special care and attention and are...

La Strega + Evolution - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena 



WI 5+ M9+
A really beautiful route to the right of La Piovra that offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts. The first pitches that lead to the roof were climbed for the first time in 1992 by the brothers Cristoforo and...


Edle Mischung - Ciampanil de Mufreit 



Fantastic ice climb up the north face of Ciampanil de Mufreit (Sella group) reached after having climbed the first three pitches of L Ciamin, put up by Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder.

The thin ice - Monte Miletto, North presummit 



D-, 60°, 75°
Logical, obvious and by no means extreme line up the North Face of Monte Miletto.

Umbaltal Eisarena 



Thanks to the large number of ice and mixed routes of all grades, all located close to one another, the Eisarena Umbaltal will soon develop into one of the top mixed and ice climbing areas in the Tirol

Fancy of Peckers - Col du Peigne 



M5+ R
After some fun initial pitches, the route connects the snowy gully of Full Love... for dry and ice with the exit of the 1942 Livacic - Martinetti route, of which there is little news about "winter garb" repeats, apart from...

Zweite Geige - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena 



WI7/M7
On 28/01/2014 Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Bendikt Purner made the first ascent of Zweite Geige (WI7/M7) in Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.

Merà Dimel - Presolana - Anticima delle Quattro Matte 



AI 4 M6
Superb alpine outing in a little known area of the Presolana. The route climbs the obvious recessed gully, past compact snow, hard to protect and mixed sections up corners and chimneys. Pro is not always easy to place. Pitches 5...

Il Grande Salto 



TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+
On 7 December 2013 Cristiano Iurisci, Massimo Zulli and Antonio Di Martino made the first ascent of Il Grande Salto (TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+) in the remote, inhospitable, isolated and wild Valle Inferno in Italy's Majella National Park. This is...

Goulotte Raggio di sole + Cascata dello Spallone - Cima Spallone del Sassolungo 3081m 



IV, WI 5 M
The summit of the Langkofel shoulder can be reached via one of the great Dolomites classics, namely by climbing the first section of Raggio di sole and combining this with the icefall Cascata dello Spallone. As explained by Massimo Meneghetti...

Tower Ridge - Ben Nevis 



IV,3
This, the most famous of the great Nevis ridges, is a magnificent expedition. It is technically easier than the North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge, but it should not be underrated. The main difficulties are concentrated high up, and the...

Point Five Gully - Ben Nevis 



1344m
A justifiably popular route, often in condition and the benchmark grade V,5 from which all other steep snow-ice gully climbs are graded.

Ghost Dog - Sass Pordoi 



WI6 XR/M5/6a, some pitches X and R
Great ice and mixed climb up the West Face of Sass Pordoi in the Dolomites, climbed over a two-day period after having fixed te first 150m of Via Fedele. On 3 December 2013 Corrado Pesce and Jeff Mercier climbed Via...

The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route - Mont Blanc 



ED
This is certainly one the absolute classic and popular routes in the Alps and leads to the summit of Mont Blanc via the highest rock pillar in the entire massif. Thanks to its altitude and orientation the tip of the...

Jottnar - Mont Blanc 



VIII, 8
Jottnar is a tricky, not obvious line. A blank canvas of corners and grooves leading back up towards the top of the Cosmiques Arete": four pitches with difficulties up to Scottish grade VIII,8. The 60m fourth pitch leads right onto...
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