The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

343
Routes in archive
Crys
Crys - Valle di Trona
II/5
Nice icefall dedicated to Cristian Candiotto's future wife.
Sfasciacarrozze
Sfasciacarrozze - Castello di Vallesinella
WI 6+, M7
Difficult mixed climb established ground-up over three days, completed on 27/12/2012. According to Faletti the line is "a great journey, highly selective. Far harder than all my other routes."
Follow the Gully
Follow the Gully - Barre des Ecrins
M6
Short but intense gully. In dry conditions the route is difficult to protect. At times the rock quality is poor. Grandiose setting, total isolation.
Dio li fa e poi li accoppia
Dio li fa e poi li accoppia - Valnontey - Cogne
WI5 M5+ 5c R X
Despite its unattractive appearance from below, each pitch offers beautiful, logical, fund and demanding climbing. Don't underestimate the difficulties because of the bolts, the route demands great trad climbing skills. Established ground-up, the aim was to leave it as trad...
Psyco Killer
Psyco Killer - Tofana di Mezzo
IV+, WI7-, D5
The icefall is clearly visible when descending from Forcella Col dei Bos (2331m) towards beautiful Val Travenanzes: look up westwards just before Malga Travenanzes (1965m) to see the drip.Psyco Killer is a "perfect" line which, when in condition, stands out...
Valeria
Valeria - Crozzon di Brenta
VI ice, M6, VI+ rock
Beautiful 270m ice climb up the West Face of Crozzon di Brenta, first climbed by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti in January2013, and dedicated to Valeria Brunelli who died in the night between 8 and 9 October 2012, buried...
Illusion
Illusion - Val Budria
5/5+
Great 2-pitch icefall set in a beautiful gully in Val Budria climbed on 5 January by Cristian Candiotto and Ezio Lualdi. Why Illusion? "Because from down in the valley you simply can't believe that it's up there, when you first...
Brothers
Brothers - Cima Grostè
M6+
A "decidedly demanding" mixed climb, difficult to protect and  "for experienced alpinists only."
Triple A
Triple A - Alraunewand
M9 (WI7-, M7, A1)
A perfect, highly selective line up the Alraunewand. The route shares some belays and some short sections of some nearby summer routes, established by  the first ascentionists of this winter route. Triple A was established ground-up and without checking out...
The usual suspects
The usual suspects - Alraunewand
WI7-, M7, A2
The first three pitches are difficult and psychologically demanding, up thin ice smears and ice mushrooms up to 95°. These are followed by a difficult 4m roof with some suspended drips. This is crowned by a vertical face and another...
Wurzer Rinne
Wurzer Rinne - Hochgasser
M5, WI5
Nice ice and mixed route established by the brothers Peter and Matthias Wurzer, a few hundred metres to the right of Hauptgully. Like the other routes on this face, it finished on the Hochgasser North Ridge.
Ben Gassa
Ben Gassa - Hochgasser
M5/M6, WI5
Ben Gassa was first ascended by the Austrian Mountain Guides Isidor Poppeller and Vittorio Messini on 16/11/2012 with difficulties up to M5/M6, WI5, following a gully and line 50m to the right of Hauptgully.
Hauptgully
Hauptgully - Hochgasser
M4, 60°
Interesting ice and mixed climb first ascended alone by Isidor Poppeller in autumn 2011.
Full Love... for dry and ice
Full Love... for dry and ice - Aiguille du Peigne
V, 5+,M6 R
This winter outing, described by Griffith as "simply awesome" follows the upper half of a very rarely – if ever - repeated British route established in summer 1967 by James Fullalove and Brian Robertson with the use of difficult aid...
Cosmiques Arête
Cosmiques Arête - Aguille du Midi
II, AD, 4a.
The Cosmiques Arête is one of the most famous and popular climbs in the Mont Blanc massif, and quite rightly so. Excellent granite, exposure, incredible scenery and mid-grade mixed climbing (with some challenging sections thrown in) are the ingredients of...
Mayerlrampe
Mayerlrampe - Grossglockner
60°ice, III rock
Mayerlrampe gets its name from legendary East Tirolean alpinist Sepp Blasl Mayerl who made the first ascent of this spectacular line together with H. Lindner and H. Messner in 1967. Since Blasl's first ascent - also known as Reinhold Messner's...


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