The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

353
Routes in archive
Utopia
Utopia - Rastentalfall
M7+/WI5
"One of the most beautiful routes I know of these difficulties. The combination of rock, ice and frozen turf make it unique." Utopia was climbed onsight, without adding bolts, all pegs used were left in-situ.
CRAM - Circolo Ricreativo Aziendale Mountime
CRAM - Circolo Ricreativo Aziendale Mountime - Cima Brenta
AI5, M6, 90°
This winter climb follows an evident drip of ice up the entire face, past some mixed sections on the first pitches. It is often possibile to protect yourself on rock using Friends (we recommend an entire rack plus some micro friends)....
Sonnentanz
Sonnentanz - Langental
WI5+ M7+
Mixed route in Langental / Vallunga that climbs through the big cave to the left of lluminati. Three pitches of water ice are followed by a mixed pitch which, protected by 6 bolts, breaches the grotto. A further two ice...
Filo d'Ambiez
Filo d'Ambiez - Cima d'Ambiez
AI, VI-
Beautiful winter climb up the NW Face of Cima d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomiteds. The new mixed climb is a direct version of Passaggio Solista, established by Tomas Franchini solo in May 2013. The first two pitches are exteremely difficult...
Siamo fuori dal Tunnel
Siamo fuori dal Tunnel - Cima Grostè
M10, WI5+
Established on 2 and 5 December ground-up, this new climb is sustained and offers sections of mixed climbing followed by total dry up solid, often overhanging rock. The line we chose climbs to the right of Via Deserto dei Tartari...
Teufelsgeige
Teufelsgeige - Langental
IV, WI 5
Interesting ice climb located circa 30m to the right of the classic Piovra in Langental / Vallunga. Teufelsgeige has proven to be an instant classic.
Burian
Burian - Paretone di Chevril
WI5 R M8
Given the right conditions, the route is a very varied and fun outing that provides committing but never extremely dangerous climbing. The ambient feels like it’s on a big mountain face, despite it’s modest height.  Since there’s no phone coverage...
MFG
MFG - Rastentalfall
M9, WI6
The mixed climb MFG is located on the Rastentalfall, to the left of the classic "Crazy Diamond". The outing is a beautiful mixed climb that ascends, via a series of good hooks, thin cracks and hanging ice daggers.
Risiko variation to Mostro di Avers - Thron
Risiko variation to Mostro di Avers - Thron - Val d'Avers
WI6/M7+
This variation climbs the lefthand drip and breaches the jutting roof. Curiously, during the first ascent a Swiss team comprised of Daniel Benz and Marcel Dettling happened to be in the same place at the same time. They chose a...
Once in a lifetime
Once in a lifetime - Col Turont
WI6+, M8
Spectacular ice climb located opposite Jumbo Jet in Val de Lietres, Dolomitesi The route is also protected with bolts and pegs.
Schorschs Weinfall
Schorschs Weinfall - Somamunt
M6/7 WI 6
Extremely beautiful ice climb wedged in a highly panoramic setting of the Dolomites, in the Antersasc valley above Campill / Longiarü in Val Badia
Solo per un altro Hashtag
Solo per un altro Hashtag - Val Lasties - Sella
M5+ / WI5
Spectacular ice and mixed climb above Val Lasties to the right of Freit dl mond.The climb was first ascended onsight using friends, nuts and ice screws. There is an insitu peg at the base of pitch 3, left by a previous...
Grotta Gampenpass
Grotta Gampenpass - Gampenpass
M6 - M12
Pleasant mixed climbing cave only 30 minutes drive from Bozen. The climbs are equipped as sports routes, with bolts and with a chain at the top. The overhanging routes have insitu quickdraws.
Il Sole di Mezzogiorno
Il Sole di Mezzogiorno - Singlin
M5, 6a
Il Sole di Mezzogiorno climbs the obvious corner on the Singlin rock face.
Gietl - Oberbacher
Gietl - Oberbacher - Pizza Longata
WI 4
Great ice climb in Val de Mesdi, circa 300 mettere high, max WI 4, highly recommended
Via Holly
Via Holly - Cima di Stanislao
AI 5 M5, 60/70°
Fantastic line of ice and mixed climbing up the fore-summit of Mount Stanislao peak above Lake Zancone in Valle Trona.


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